Home DIY

Thanks for this. Water off next step back is whole house, but will have to be done. If I get the valve out the way i guess i can use a pushfit elbow joint to create a 90deg bend and then run the pipe a short way horizontal, link to isolator valve then another short pipe section to attach the new hose to.

Trouble with spanners is the clearance between the pipes & valves means hard to get a grip and twist even with better reach. I think you're right to get loose what i can as that brings me the required separation to work on other bits. Ta.

Can you get a long adjustable spanner or mole grip locked onto the lower nut and somehow block the handle from moving without having to hold it? Alternatively, could you somehow lock the two lower nuts together with a a G-clamp to lock it in place? Just a thought.

Good luck with it, maybe bath out will be the only way but the water really needs to be off anyway. Quite often it's possible to do what initially seemed impossible in plumbing!

Will look into those options, ta.

Thanks again.

Depending on the size of access needed (single stopcock, two with meter)

Build a brick chamber and top with>>
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018SMG500/ref=asc_df_B018SMG50055828914

Or a drainage inspection chamber, but it would need some cutting, to get it around your pipe>>
https://www.plasticdrainage.co.uk/320mm-x-575mm-chamber-set-3-inlet-c-w-round-pp-cover.html
chambers avaliable in a few diameters and the risers are available in different lengths, plus they can be stacked and cut down for differing heights

Cheers for the links and good shout on the brick chamber. I was struggling to work out how to neatly make a concrete box without risking damage to the pipes.

But still doesn't it seem weird that these are all so tiny?

Why not have a decent sized access point?

If you ever need the external stopcock, just enough pace for a key down the hole would be enough space.

If the valve leaks/fails, your gona need a fairly big hole to get it sorted, so even a decent sized chamber would be too small

Bit niche, but worth a shot.

Does anyone have any reccomendation for cheaper nails for my nail gun, looking for 2.8mm x 50mm for a Paslode im350, so takes the angled nails. Fed up of paying £30 a pop for 1100 from screwfix, don't need them to come with gas, as already got loads of that.

@Airhead @rodabod thanks again for tips, progress made & ugly pushfit elbow in place! Will be much easier to get at the individual hose connectors in future, and hopefully the ball valve isolators will last long enough that I won't need to get at them again.

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This is the split in the tap connector hose, was only fitted 2013. Is there a more robust option?!

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Isn't it just chaffed from the hoses rubbing against each other. Shit routing?
With the previous route and quite long hoses, there would be a fair amount of movement every time the pressure changed

I think my bath connectors are original fit 1989

Shit routing?

Defo this.

Other one looks fine from what I can see? I'd expect both to be damaged if friction.

I'll replace both to be safe & see if I can keep them apart.

Anyone got recommendations for someone who can fix external render in the SE area?

Need someone ASAP and finding it hard to pin people down...

Dust extraction question. I've started working inside my garage as opposed to in the back garden to save me the hassle of setting up and packing away every day. Problem is dust is going everywhere. Main culprit's are my table and mitre saws. I connect up my cheapo Titan wet/dry vac which does a good job of catching a lot of the dust, but I want to try and improve things further. Is a more expensive extractor going to help? For example a Festol CTL is £350, what does that get you that a cheaper vacuum doesn't?

I'm wearing a dust mask so my lungs should be okay, but I'd like to do something about the fine layer of mdf dust that is accumulating on absolutely everything.

You'll always have a fine layer of dust about if you're routing/table sawing Mdf. The CTL is great but smaller ones team up more with the sanders. I use 4 Festool hoovers for different jobs, the largest one is too heavy to cart about unless I'm on site a long time. Portability and integration with the Festool box system is a big part of the cost with those, if you are only going to use it in one place looks at some of the cyclonic dust catchers and a big industrial type of vacuum unit.

Festool used to be the best game in town for this kind of stuff but there's lots of competition now.

Y'all be wanting a cyclone extractor - connect it inline with your vac.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0185Z5C7C

And if you're ever planning on kicking up a lot of plaster dust, having it go through a wet filter would help too.

10-12kw Villager Elite stove, with back boiler later installed by a plumber friend, to move some of the excessive output to other rooms. 150mm vitrious enamel going to twin wall .

50mm thick, one piece slate slab was rather heavy but more than covered the building regs.

I suppose now needing the certificate has everyone over a barrel

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Dave Ridge & Son are good for pebbledash, dunno if they do flat render. Phone rather than email if you want a response.

Another boring paint question. Going to do front door in Sadolin Superdec. Have most of a tin of Sandtex 10 year "primer undercoat" otherwise going unused. Front door is more or less stripped - better with undercoat or can the solvent-based stuff mess with the self-priming waterbased stuff? Do some experiments on spare bits of wood?

It's not pretty but we can shower again. Not rushing to replace other connector tonight but it will be done at some point.

Note the inline pushfit is unnecessary but it will allow me to remove hose & short pipe quickly in future then do the two spanner job in open space.

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Check the overcoat time of the primer.
If you can no longer smell the solvent and the primer paint film is dry you should be good to go.

If a angle grinder cable was slightly damaged, could it leak a small amount of current? Enough to feel but not properly shock. I'm sure that's what was happening tonight.

No visable damage to speak of. Checked out the internals and the switch wiring looks too complicated for me to rewire successfully. Considering heat shrinking the entire cable to get me by until I can get someone more skilled to do it properly.

Thanks.

Managed to find someone in the end - coming to do the work on Friday.

Plug it into an RCD. Should trip if there's current in the wrong place.