Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

Do you mean the bolts under the BB? (Sorry if that's a stupid question, I had the olive green old model, don't know if is still the same)
If it's the same, I used to put grease in the block so it doesn't get seized and then torqued the bolts as evenly and strongly as possible, otherwise it slowly moved backwards under my massive watts.

It's the old olive green one, yeah. Mine is moving a bit too, even without massive wattage. I just like torqueing things to spec instead of by feel.

To be fair it is a much better compromise than the even wider bar Crust used to sell, bizarrely riding with that wide a bar felt a lots more nature than a wide flat bar.

Any recommendations for cheap but decent disc hubs for a gravel build? Novatec got so many variations which is confusing.

I've got a Novatec QR 6 bolt front hub that I'd be happy to part with for some beers - unused as I used as a dyno hub instead. SW4 based.

How many holes? Tentadibs (after daveaa of course) (and if you're willing to post it to me)

looks good for me!

I'm probably 90% sure they're a 32h. I'll wait a bit for @daveaa to reply and shoot you a DM @frankenbike

Thanks, no rush on my end!

@frankenbike can go for it mate, not in position to enjoy the gratuois offer sadly.

Talked to the same employee as yesterday. He now claimed to have talked to the Pinnacle 'brand team' and said 10 Nm was the correct value. Seems way off for an M8 fastener, unless it's low grade steel. Plus the fact that tightened at 10 Nm it would spin with the lightest load applied.

You need to be more specific, quick release? thru axle? if so, what sizes? 6 bolt or centerlock? etc.

is anyone on here riding a mason bokeh and can describe how it rides in comparison to a carbon frame, if possible?

if possible

I doubt it.
I’ve had some aluminium frames, some carbon ones and one 50/50. None of them ride the same but neither material trumps the other on “feel” overall. Depends on what carbon frame you’re talking about

currently riding a giant tcx advanced pro, debating with myself about a replacement or n+1, but unsure if the bokeh with alu-frame will feel less comfy. i know that contact points and tires have more input in comfy, but still unsure...

Can you test ride one?

Obligatory get an Arkrose but here goes.

I ride a Croix de Fer 931 frame and mostly do Audax's, 'gravel', camping trips and very hilly rides (I live in Wales). I'm looking at either sticking a lightweight set of wheels on the CdF for road times or changing the frame to a Mason Bokeh. Never have ridden anything like that and don't have the means to test ride.

Only recently moved to Wales and I'm tired of the CdFs weight, in full winter (Dynamo and guards) weight it comes in at 14kg. Looking for something spritely to take the edge off long distance audaxing/rides. Never been happy with it, it's not very exciting to ride but looks great and is comfortable. Do I change the frame, or lose around 300g on a lighter wheelset?

Any advice welcome!

If you've never been happy with the croix, I think you've answered your own question. Flog it and get summat lighter/newer, that new bike feel always adds a couple of mph, until that feeling wears off. Losing 300g on the wheels ain't that great a difference if you're carrying a load anyway.

Weird, one will think than they put these big bolts to take a fair bit of pressure. Still beats finger tight

Depends on how tight your fingers are.

I still think I'm dealing with clueless employees. 10 Nm can't be right.

Similar numbers in the pinnacle pose thread

Torque it to 10 Nm, then tell them "I was told 10 Nm but it's still moving". You might get a free warranty replacement frame out of it

Hmm. I'll give it a shot and see what happens.
Maybe I'm the clueless one?

I keep looking at those cheap, carbon UP copies on eBay....£380 ish for frame and fork....as the same sort of solution to my Sequoia. I like the Sequoia, but it's heavy......but I like it, but it's heavy etc.....