Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

I need dis

https://youtu.be/BvA-BKvbrfM

Car dropped off at the painter/trimmer again.

Roof mech needs work, hence the scratches to the frame- looking at it there are clearly parts which should have been changed and/or reset when the fabric part was changed. Be interesting to see what they try to charge me for.

2010 was absolutely the wrong time. But in his defence, it was a time before even 964's and 993's were rising stupidly in value. He also bought the car to use and enjoy and it was one of a couple of cars so he never bought it speculatively.

I'm in two minds on the rising value thing.

A complete engine rebuild on a 996 is around 10k - that's from the engine basically scrapping itself at speed.

A top end rebuild on an aircooled motor is 10-14k, and people pay the higher charge for less work because the 996 is a 15 grand car and a 964 is a 60k car.

I can't help feeling that as prices rise (which is likely) then the cost of keeping these cars on the road will go up. Which will lead to more being scrapped, which will push the value up etc etc.

I should add, I'm both driving and modifying mine and the key requirements for value are minimal miles and 100% OEM spec, so I'll miss out on the value increase whilst spending more money.

On the C55 the registration plate screws are not as secure as I would like them to be - they screw into a painted plastic insert:

I'm thinking of using Helicoils to repair the threads - before I do so:

1. Are Helicoils (the brand) the best to use?
   
2. Anyone got another suggestion before I drill and tap this bit of plastic?
   

Rivnuts. Preferably alloy ones with the serrated outer part.

I need to go through the material for those though do I not?

The current little plastic turrets have blind holes in them at ~20mm deep

Remove the plastic inserts and replace with rivnuts.

They are cast into the bit of plastic, to remove them will leave four large holes - far larger than an M5 rivnut.

VHB tape, forget screws.

Are the current fixings basically plastic rivnuts?

They are screw grommets.

Try vehicleclips.co.uk or a decent local motorfactor. Or Merc themselves.

Are the current fixings basically plastic rivnuts?

I don't know, the plastic insert that the registration plate sits in appears to be one single piece of plastic, with the threads themselves being made from the same plastic as the rest.

Of course, being painted it is hard to say whether the screw-apertures are part of a rivnut style thing, or not. I'd have to sand off the paint to find out, which I'm not hugely keen to do.

Rear:

Looks to me like a thicker part of the casting that is drilled and tapped, but could be an insert - given I'd need to remove it destructively I don't think it makes much difference.

Am I missing something here but why not use suitable self-taping screws. Obviously, get the plastic covers for the screw heads.

What am I missing here???

They’d be pretty big self tappers- the OEM bolts are M5

I think he means just drill new guide holes and use self tappers, or why not just use sticky pads like everyone else?

You can't say things like "just use sticky pads" to @Dammit

Anyone have anything to say on Volvo V70 c.2010-ish?

D5 or D3? Anything to look out for? Any particular spec to have?

Thinking it might be a good cheaper alternative to E350Cdi Wagon for a while while I spend more money on some other important stuff in life...

D5 is supposed to be a great engine. Good umph and good mpg.

Isn’t it @BrickMan that knows volvos inside and out?

D5 is supposed to be a great engine

This. I've got the 2012 drivE/D2 which is fine for me power wise, I basically hate cars and never go fast. But it has had a clogged up injector and a failed clutch (ok not engine related but still) at around 130,000 kms. D5 supposedly has excellent longevity and lots of power.

oh i could have one of those as well. Thats pretty lovely tho id get mine in "non white"

Mild whistling noise at 70: