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• #15253
I have f,l&b for a sidegate (90ish from Champion (+a lot for paint)
For a khazi? I would agree its probably not necessary.
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• #15254
I'd go new door. I bought timber to build a gate for our building and it cost about the same as a new, pre-built, gate.
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• #15255
Cheers guys.
Its annoying it got kicked in, but it was already a bit rotten under the paint before.
Do you usually need to do anything specific to treat outside doors pre-paint? Or is it just a case of using a decent outdoor paint?
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• #15256
I think a lot will have a pre-paint treatment already (the one from champion did).
ll I did was sand, prime and paint*
No pre-treatment
* and chisel the hinge recesses and latch, drill the lock barrel hole, pin the braces, and fill and sand Amy of the bigger pin / screw holes.
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• #15257
Cheers
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• #15258
Your main concern with paint on a new door is movement of the wood and knots. If you have a choice of doors try and get the least knotty. You can treat them with knot sealer but can't work miracles.
10 years ago I'd have suggested Dulux Weathershield Primer which was a blue liquid most painters swore by, they had to stop making it because it was killing dolphins (fair enough). The acrylic one doesn't work anywhere near as well. Zinnser stain seal + All coat on top is a pretty good contemporary solution. You have a fancy colour so that will cost more and not last as long. Most coloured exterior gloss paint is guaranteed for 8 years, white for 10. Eggshell finishes and darker colours don't last as long as 8 years normally.
Of course a shrunken head peering out from there would stop any draught and discourage anyone looking in the shed. Pricey though.
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• #15259
I don't think you need it framed. I think the term is Ledged but I'm not great on terminology. As TW pointed out, gates are usually framed.
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• #15260
Ledged and braced does make more sense than legged and braced.
Cheers for the paint tips.
There are 3 doors on the outhouse in total, so I'll probably have to paint all of them to match. I was pondering a different colour, but then I'll need a decent basecoat etc. so I've now gone off that idea.
Especially as my better half has just pointed out my repaint (in supposedly the same colour) doesn't match the previous colour. So that needs redoing as well :(
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• #15261
Darn, you might be right. I'll start investigating oak veneer mdf or plywood a bi for more seriously. What are my options aside from iron on veneer? Need something that will survive the test of x2 cat.
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• #15262
Just had to ask the carpenter to change the height of the shelves going in the lounge alcoves.
Not sure why I found it so awkward, I think this is why I prefer doing the stuff I can myself!?! -
• #15263
Am I alone in thinking the top shelf is ridiculously high
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• #15264
Line them up with the top two (and top) of the dresser maybe?
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• #15265
I’ve asked for 45cm gaps, as this is currently 30cm. Will bring them all down and have space for the all important vase and other larger objects.
Not sure if I just have to suck up the extra cost or if I have any grounds as if asked them to start around the height of the bottom of the mirror. -
• #15266
Depends, where do you store all your ohmibods?
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• #15268
Look similar to ours. Why not bring the lowest one down?
(it's had another coat, don't worry)
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• #15269
Gone of the days where bongs were mistaken as vases...
Argh the pitfalls of having other people do stuff!! Do I just have to swallow any additional cost?
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• #15270
Hmm how high are your ceilings and without being too blunt what will you put on the top shelf!?
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• #15271
Ceilings aren't silly high. We've had wine boxes on the top shelf before, with stuff that you want access to but don't need out regularly.
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• #15272
Yeah think ours might be higher.
Just had another conversation with the boss and he still thinks they should be closer despite showing him the size of the art books etc. Bit frustrating, Sure he feels the same. -
• #15273
What goes under the shelves?
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• #15274
Chairs sort of
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• #15275
Did you specify and agree shelf locations prior to the work beginning?
If not, then it’s as much your responsibility as anyone’s.
Thanks.
I don't want it to look like a bodge job. So maybe a new door is best. Especially once I factor in the cost of wood for a repair.