Home DIY

I would recommend beech. It is cheapish and relatively un-splintery
In fact:
https://www.toolsandtimber.co.uk/beech-dowels-config-1148?utm_source=google_shopping&m=configurable&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5s3cBRCAARIsAB8ZjU2EC-wRfsWaI-B55j85tD7xu6xcMrWhjyVP4B0v4E7mmmc-INs-OMQaAkUdEALw_wcB

I’d suggest 45mm diameter, it comes in length up to 2.4.

I was going to knock up a t stand and put a reinforced hole at the tip of the t.

So about 1.5 to 2m and mobile

Without the seal in the right place it will leak for sure.

The problem you k
Now have is that even if you can reassemble it, without access underneath, you can’t check for leaks. If it’s possible to put an access hatch in from underneath you can reassemble, check and access again in future.

I've only ever seen round barres, but I'm not an expert.

The squareness is for a supporting stand.

yeah so i need someone to come remove a tile to be able to

theres already a tile thats been cut in half and re-attached probably for a similar reason..

anyone know a plumber in south london?

The bottom of one of the doors to our outbuilding was kicked in. Some of the wood was rotten underneath already but with a nice coat of paint hiding the damage.

What are my repair options?

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Photos of the back to give an idea of construction...

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That'll buff out

Because it's quite high up, I'm wondering about whether a larger bottom lintel(?) would work. But then it won't match the other doors.

Otherwise I planned to cut the wood out, reinforced along the back like below, and blend/ fill in. Although now I've drawn it, maybe just an additional strip along the bottom is best?

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Radiator covers. I want to make one as my radiator is larger than all the ready made ones. I'm planning on using 18mm mdf for the main body, and then either a solid oak or oak veneered mdf for the top.

For the main body, is there any reason I shouldn't make it out of one piece of mdf, cutting out the squares, rather than piece by piece and joining them together? All the ones I've seen are joined with biscuits and glue but just seems like a lot of extra effort?

If you are going MDF, you can get sheets with precut patterns in them.

I've looked really closely at my folks and I'm pretty sure they are one piece on the front.

But as it was done part of a renovation I'd guess it was cnc as part of a batch.

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Ah, I thought you meant cutting out lots of small squares. My mistake.

On the door repair.

Is there a particular type of wood I should be using?

Cheers

I have a plunge saw so should be easy enough to cut out the squares cleanly. Just was wondering if there isn't some obvious reason why the youtube lot are all doing it with glue joints. Think I'll just do it one piece and save a lot of faff.

@stevo_com No worries. Was planning on exactly that. It's called screening I believe.

I thought that for a minute too.

Can you imagine how tedious that would be by hand?

New front door and frame went in yesterday, but has been left with a few fairly deep holes around the edge where the plaster has come away.
As a total novice, is this something I can sort myself or would I immediately regret it and wish I'd got a plasterer in? Presumably as it's just patching, it'd be a couple of hours work and shouldn't cost too much, right?

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The wallpaper is coming off, before anyone notes the ripples on the right

I'd put another section of architrave around that.

It's not an easy fix because you can't guarantee what you would be fixing to will hold up. A piece of aluminium chequer board plate would cover the outside, epoxy it on. You could cut a strip of the bottom of the door and use marine ply, the aluminium would cover the join. Epoxy it all together and you have a proper bodge.

The lower quality doors are reasonably cheap to buy, fitting is probably less work than repairing the existing but painting can be more time consuming and there's no guarantee that a new door won't warp, split or leech resin if it's made of pine.

Last time I did this job properly it cost around £40 for a door from Howdens, painting took around 4 hours in total, I was also painting other doors the same colour. I had to reject 3 doors that were badly made or damaged from the supplier.

Solid oak might warp with all that heat applied to one side. Oak veneer is fine as long as you can edge it in a way that pleases you.

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Movement crack. Usually the building is shifting one way or the other or both seasonally. It's a proper bitch to fix and some of them really can't be with normal paper. I've used 3 different types of lining paper to fix this over time, they all have different side effects but the cracks don't reappear. Fibre glass lining pressed into a special ground covered with normal paper, wallpaper with fibre glass centre (Wallrock fibreliner) and a new type from Germany which is the best finish but most expensive and has not been up long enough for me to say it will survive any movement.

The wallrock fibre liner is the most readily available but it has a slightly fluffy texture and can't be sanded at all, it's probably best lined with a standard lining paper to get a really nice smooth paintable surface. Alternatively you can paint it and very lightly denib the entire wall to get a smoother finish.

Should say you need to rake out the existing crack and fill with something flexible too, the process of doing that and ending up with a smooth enough surface is time consuming too.

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As a total novice, is this something I can sort myself or would I immediately regret it and wish I'd got a plasterer in?

Speaking as a novice, in my limited experience plastering small to medium sized areas is really easy. But it can be incredibly time consuming. More so when you see the speed of a professional.

That said, the time it's going to take you to find someone - almost no one will bother for such small work - you may as well buy a tub of premix plaster and DIY.