A S Gillott - L'Atlantique (I think)

Found instructions in English for the rear derailleur

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And

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Finally

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New brake blocks

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Regarding the cranks, I would consider spraying loads of pentrating oil (or some other solvent to dissolve old grease, page Tester?) through the BB oil port while turning the cranks. Then the engine oil or liquid (warmed up) grease through the same port, use gravity to get it to both sides. I would avoid doing it through the seat tube because it could chip surface rust or dirt and take it for a ride to BB.

You would probably need a syringe and some tubing for step 2.

New grease using a Tecalemit ?

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I wonder if that bottom bracket bearing has been fitted with a sleeve?

Back in the day it was normal to leave the bearing exposed to any crap that was in the tubes, or water that often gets into the frame from leaks around the seat bolt clamp. By the 1970's it became normal to use a sleeve to overcome this problem - either home made or from a bike shop, and presumably this is one reason why builders no longer put an oiler in the BB shell.

Having ruined one bearing with shot blast grit which had remained in the seat tube, I always put a sleeve into these old style 'open' BB's.

It may be possible to see a sleeve by unscrewing the oiler - if there's nothing visible you could try flooding the bearing with oil (I'd use engine oil). With any luck that would dissolve the old grease.

If a sleeve is present you'll either have to hope for the best or dismantle. I'm confident those cranks would come off fairly easily: penetrating oil, heat, then (failing having the proper tool) hammer a wedge (eg the slanted part of a cold chisel) between the crank and the cup. You might protect the surfaces with some plastic cut from a food container. Alternatively try a car accessory shop for a puller.

As a last resort, my son has a bike (unused for many years) with the same BB. I'm sure he could be persuaded to swop his BB for something more standard.

Let me know about their braking power!

Have you got a source of supply for those wet weather brake blocks?

I could do with some for my grand daughter's bike.

Thanks very much for your advice and kind potential offer of another BB. I will see how I get on.

It's Fibrax themselves http://fibrax.org/phone/shop.html#%21/Vintage-Raincheater-Rim-Pads-35mm-for-Steel-Rims-leather-strip/p/79911937

After a recommendation from @Big_Block

Yes mate, I will let you know how they perform.

Removed the chain to clean the years of dirt from it and found it to be a Brampton Course chain

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More Simplex fitting instructions in the V-CC Library
http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Simplex%20Tour%20de%20France%20notes%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf
http://veterancycleclublibrary.org.uk/ncl/pics/Simplex%20Fitting%20Instructions%20c1950%20(V-CC%20Library).pdf

and at Classic Lightweights
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/simplex_adjustment.html
http://www.classiclightweights.co.uk/simplex-instruction.html

just get that chainline correct (before you install the chain)
and remember that these were early derailleurs. They had limitations, but part of the pleasure is riding how Coppi, Bobet and others did.

I used these for the setting up a Simplex TDF rd on my bike frame built for my father.

Thanks very much for the links to setting up the TDF which will make it far easier to complete.

What a lovely bike, really enjoying the pics of the restoration.

Thanks @russmeyer

Changed the gear cable and took off the blue sticky tape holding the gear cable outer

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Underneath was a very neatly cut hand fashioned "cable tie" to keep the outer in place.

Was this the norm on 50s bikes or was there an actual component to keep the outer in place?

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Found a saddle bag which I think is probably aged around 1940s-1950s.

No obvious maker's marks anywhere.

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Not sure how old it is but it won't look out of place.
Would you be treating it with proofide or something similar?
I remember buying an old Brooks, the leather was kind of similar condition to that bag and although I've treated it with loads of proofide, it lasted 2 rides before almost snapping in 2 as the leather was dry in the middle.
Of course you won't be putting as much strain but might be a strap or the or the lid that breaks.

Bit of dubbin on that be reet

Just go to your hard copy of the 1952 Brown Bros Catalogue and look up Cable Bands.
Failing that go to the catalogue on Dawes-man's Flickr account
The Dunlop or John Bull in the small size would be what you are after on p24. Then after getting them you will notice the rubber has deteriorated. You can buy some reproductions, but my experience is the compound used was too hard and they couldn't stretch.
So you make some.

For the saddlebag, you need not use Proofide on that, but any leather conditioner may assist.
Keep the Proofide for Brooks style saddles.

If it was mine, I would give stick it in a bucket of water for an hour, remove from the water then pack the insides to get the shape I was after. Replace the packing a few times to speed the drying. After a few days give it a good treatment of saddle soap.

Thanks for the advice