Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Thanks for the help. One of the tyres is very worn and hard to read the other says 32-597 so clearly is that size. I'll just have to call them and see if they'd be happy with the 590 size from sjs but also having to get new tyres. Guess there will be an issue with brake caliper reach.

An ABC of forum wheel builders.

Kenda seems to be one of the few that still make them.

Does £180 for Mavic Open Pros (new style), dt competition spokes (64 of em and nipples), labour, and using hubs I already have sound fair?

New Open Pros are going for about 40 quid each retail and DT Comps are about 90p to a pound each. That only leaves 36 quid for labour. I'd say it was a good price if they do a decent build.

Cheers for prompt reply. They do a very good wheel build, and I get truing done for a packet of biscuits/box of teabags. The joys of being a loyal customer at yer lbs. Will give em the go ahead.

Not when DT Comps aren't worth 4-5 times as much as Cyclebasket's 21p ACIs.

DT Comps aren't worth 4-5 times as much as Cyclebasket's 21p ACI

But they might be worth 36p each, if you're a brand tart. If your wheelbuilder is charging £1 each for DT Comps, they probably shouldn't be charging labour too.

2 × Open Pro UST from Wiggle £84.00
64 × DT Comps + nipples from Rose £34.28
Payment to LBS for saving you the trouble of getting the parts in and doing it yourself £61.72

I can see how that's still a worthwhile price if you don't have the time, tools or skills to DIY, but it's at the higher end of the market.

Like you say, time and tools are my problems, not enough of either. Also, no quiet place to carry out such jobs. Lbs it is.

I'm building some Pacenti Brevet 700 rims onto Novatec hubs, but am having a bit of a problem getting the correct dish/tension on the rear.

Spokes are Sapim Laser (1.5mm Non-drive side), Sapim Race (1.8mm drive side). And the max kgf for the rims is 125.

As per Park's tension meter chart, I should be looking at a max tension of 22–23 on the drive side, and presumably no lower than ~60kgf / 11–12 on the tension meter for the NDS.

Thing is, I still need more dish (1–2mm) but don't want to go any higher on the DS, and the NDS is already too low.

Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks

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1/8th turn on DS and 1/8th off NDS at the same time, it'll be fine.

Cheers, maybe I’m just worrying too much.
What’s the usual minimum tension on the non-drive side?
Is it just whatever it ends up at after tensioning the drive side?
This is the first geared rear i’ve built.

Some rim suggestions please.
Got some nice suntour superbe 24h track hubs. Archetypes (black) are in the frame but ideally i'd like to go silver. Any deep section (on the basis that they will help build a stiffer wheel) recommendations? Budget is about £60 per rim max.
Thanks.

Silver XR31T from Superstar?

Scrub that, they're out of stock.

Thanks, was just looking following your first post. Any other thoughts just drop a post

Velocity Deep V?

https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/velocity-deep-v-700c-silver

56 a piece for 24h

Is it just whatever it ends up at after tensioning the drive side?

Yes it is

What makes the difference in terms of ballooning the tyre? Inner or outer rim width?

Inner.

If you dont need rim brake machining: silver xr31t DISC from superstar? :)

(arc31DISC)

halo .

Kinlin rebranded do some in polish silver

Thanks to @svenhöek and @broken_777 for those suggestions. Will check them out.

trying to get radially true, any tips? got a low/high spot.

If the tension is even then the rim is shit. But generally, if its a high spot, tighten nipples on both sides around it, and the opposite for low.