Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Aren't you measuring in the plain of the rim

ERD is correctly measured in the plane of the rim. Correcting for the hypotenuse is done in spoke calculation afterwards.

Edit: this is an academic discussion at this point, I'm not going to do it. But am still curious if it's possible. One of my flaws I think, I can't give up on an idea until I know exactly why it doesn't work

Even if the material isn't worn away by what you decide is "too worn", how would you know that the resin/bond was still structurally sound and hadn't been degraded by high rim temperatures?

Someone has already valued their life at a greater value than the cost of a new rim but you think "Bargain" 😉

Someone has already valued their life at a greater value than the cost of a new rim but you think "Bargain"

That's because only a certified genius like me would think of using it with a fixed hub (sarcasm if it wasn't obvious enough)

I do think an aero fairing could work though. Cut the brake track away, slice it in half and fix it onto the rim either side of the spokes. Or glue it onto an aluminium rim and rebuild it. For fast flat stuff like a TT where weight isn't a concern and you don't need it to be structural.

If you were to discard the rim bed part and bond the U onto a lightweight aluminium rim, there's a few stumbling blocks.

~40mm in, your spokes will have a large stagger, compared to the original nipple holes.

Are you going to use inverted nipples so you can true the wheel once it's faired.

Sometimes genius and madness are easily confused.

~40mm in, your spokes will have a large stagger, compared to the original nipple holes.

Aye, but since it's not a structural part you can drill holes wherever you like :) admittedly getting these in the right place could be difficult

 Are you going to use inverted nipples so you can true the wheel once it's faired.

Yeah, I suppose you would have to. Or these with a socket wrench. You could use whatever (aluminium) rim you like though to make it as convenient as possible to true it. Single wall would be easiest and a bit of a weight saving. I guess you would need to match the rim outer width too between the two

You would have to remove the tyre to true the wheel, but for its intended purpose that's not really a big deal I would say. If you have to get off to true your wheel in a TT/race-type situation your race is screwed anyway.

6700 hubs.
10 speed.

should I?
Which 10 speed cassette will fit now that 105 and above is 11 speed?
Tiagra?

You can still get new 105, Ultegra etc 10 speed cassettes or am I misunderstanding?

I think my garbled point was "should I, how long will 10speed live, what are the development plans for shimano to get rid of 10speed by when?"

or am I misunderstanding?

There's nothing wrong with your understanding, CS-6700 etc. are still available.

what are the development plans for shimano to get rid of 10speed

They haven't got rid of 5-speed yet, but even in the unlikely event that Shimano go weird/bust, the Chinese will keep making 10-speed HG consumables for decades because there will be money to be made.

Great!

And you do have the option of running 11sp mtb cassettes if your deraileur cage will take them (11-34 and bigger) ... if you want to go 11sp in the future.

SLX m675 hub dimensions, does anyone know which calculator they are in?

Yes @svenhöek

SPNK (or the guy behind the now defunct company) manufactures and sells them in the UK.
They used to also do a similar thing to the Surly Fixxer but stopped.

£20 here:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fixed-Wheel-Hub-Adaptor-Converter-Kit-Correct-Chainline-Track-Fixie-Fixxer-/223075269600

SLX m675

http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/hub/258

thanks

Muchos muchos

Just taken delivery of a pair of the new Farsports Alps tubular rims.

Quality seems just as good as Lightbicycle, the rims are within advertised weight range (just) and the ERD is also correct.

Hopefully will be able to build them into a sub 1kg wheelset.

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Who's the forums favourite wheel builder? I have a set of nextie rims that need to be laced to hope pro 2 hubs.

@arup @broken_777 @cycleclinic

Depends where you are: the first two are in Town (I believe), the last in Suffolk so you'd need to account for shipping.

Nice one. I'm in SW London. Will message the guys.

Need some help figuring out which rims to get for a 1948 set of wheels. The existing rims have gone rusty and the spokes look like they'll need replacing too. The tyres say 26 x 1 1/4 and the holes are 32, 40 (front, rear). I've found these on sjs https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/sjsc-26-x-1-38-590-alloy-rim-silver-40-hole/ .
Anyone have any experience?

Are you sure you want 590? 26×1¼ on a 1948 sports bike might well mean 597

No, not sure at all, just the closest match I could find so wondering if it would work. If I do need to get 597 size (26") rims, any idea where I could source them? They want me to replace the rims but want to keep the tyres.

If I do need to get 597 size (26") rims, any idea where I could source them?

Nobody seems to make them, so you're going to be searching in the second hand market. Check the tyre markings to see if the 26×1¼ has suffix EA1 (597) or EA3 (590)