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2000 grit is as far as i've bothered before. With gaitors on, just smear up the inside of them with waterproof grease and seal top and bottom with a zip tie, makes a nice greasy atomsphere to prevent them from corroding again.
Have previously used lacquer and a sewing needle to dab in the pit marks, leave to dry (a week sometimes), then sand down with a rubber block + 2000 to make them smooth.
BrickMan
@M_V
Finally got round to starting to do my fork seals today.
Disassembly wasn't too bad, supposedly you need a tool to reach down in side the fork leg to hold something while you undo the bolt at the bottom that releases the legs but compressing the spring a little seemed to do it, fingers crossed it'll be the same story for reassembly.
Before I put everything back together though I thought I should have a go at sorting the pitting on the tubes that's probably done the old seals in.
Started with 1200 grit emery paper and that seemed to knock most of the high spots down. 2000 grit has polished the marks from the 1200 out quite nicely. Anyone know how far I should go? I don't mind shelling out ten bucks or whatever it'll be for a mixed pack of Klingspor that'll take me up to about 7000 grit but I just wonder if it's really worth the effort.
Also, that seems to have smoothed off the high spots but there are still divots in the finish, not sure what I could apply to fill them in, or if they really need filled.
And yes, I know I should just buy new tubes or get these ones rechromed but that's all £££.
I was gonna chuck a set of gaitors on the forks, partialy for looks, partially so the ot tester doesn't see the pitting, partially to (hopefully) protect the forks moving forward. Bit worried that they hold moisture in though, just do it on a dry day and zip tie them tightly to the forks? Or will the fork legs lubricate themselves a little making worrying about this null and void?