• No, I'd just have to guess based on wear indicator. Or using one of those dental enamel thickness gauges that people check rim wear with. I wonder how much they differ from aluminium? Rule of thumb is >1mm and it's still good right? I guess as long as it's about as thick a disc brake rim wall it's probably okay?

    Edit: this is an academic discussion at this point, I'm not going to do it. But am still curious if it's possible. One of my flaws I think, I can't give up on an idea until I know exactly why it doesn't work

  • Edit: this is an academic discussion at this point, I'm not going to do it. But am still curious if it's possible. One of my flaws I think, I can't give up on an idea until I know exactly why it doesn't work

    Even if the material isn't worn away by what you decide is "too worn", how would you know that the resin/bond was still structurally sound and hadn't been degraded by high rim temperatures?

    Someone has already valued their life at a greater value than the cost of a new rim but you think "Bargain" 😉

  • Someone has already valued their life at a greater value than the cost of a new rim but you think "Bargain"

    That's because only a certified genius like me would think of using it with a fixed hub (sarcasm if it wasn't obvious enough)

    I do think an aero fairing could work though. Cut the brake track away, slice it in half and fix it onto the rim either side of the spokes. Or glue it onto an aluminium rim and rebuild it. For fast flat stuff like a TT where weight isn't a concern and you don't need it to be structural.

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