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gbj_tester-
No, I'd just have to guess based on wear indicator. Or using one of those dental enamel thickness gauges that people check rim wear with. I wonder how much they differ from aluminium? Rule of thumb is >1mm and it's still good right? I guess as long as it's about as thick a disc brake rim wall it's probably okay?
Edit: this is an academic discussion at this point, I'm not going to do it. But am still curious if it's possible. One of my flaws I think, I can't give up on an idea until I know exactly why it doesn't work
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I like the idea of @frankenbike refusing to buy a 2nd hand rim because it isn’t worn enough and hasn’t hit the sweet spot of wear.
frankenbike
dancing james
What I mean is there must be a sweet spot between "too worn for further braking" and "too worn to maintain structural integrity" right? If there's a rim wear indicator I assume it denotes this point. Or to be more specific, the rim wear indicator indicates that if you continue to brake on it you will soon compromise the structural integrity of the walls. But with a safety margin and a little dash of planned obsolescence thrown in.
If you continue to ride it without braking on it, sure it probably won't last very long, but should get plenty of mileage out of it until the spoke bed bits start to fail or the walls fail due to pot holes and whatnot.
With the wrong brake pads I have no idea, again I assume that "braking on this rim will be deadly" does not mean the same as "this rim will explode when you put a new tyre on it" but I am more than willing to accept I'm wrong on this one - I don't want to mess about with delamination and stuff
I would obviously have to find rims that hit that sweet spot which could be difficult... but given that they just get thrown away otherwise and there's no market for them, there's probably a lot of them about