Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Ah perfect, definitely looks right. Thanks

Rigida (zac 2000 or something) ?

Recommended spoke count for deep section rims:

• disc brake front/rear? 20/24 might be alright?
  
• fixed rear wheel?
  
  

Say 85-100kg ballpack total weight, probably the low end of that range. I could give a guess for normal rims but not sure with deep carbon.

Also, is there ever a good reason to build a deep 16h non-rim-brake wheel? Disc brakes would seem to be a no, fixed rear perhaps... but seems too low still? Track front wheel with no front brake would seem to be the only option.

Edit: to clarify there are a load of idiots on the internet who ruin their brake tracks by using the wrong pads, or simply wear them out - I am assuming in most cases the rims are still good as long as you don't brake on them. So thinking I'll buy some near-dead rims and build some wheels up. The #cheapskate HHSB solution

So you want to buy the only fucked bit of a fucked wheel in order to build the part that's perilously close to death into a new wheel with very limited scenarios when it could ever be used? Despite the edit, I'm struggling to see how this makes sense.

disc brake front/rear? 20/24 might be alright?

It might be, but try finding a 20H disc hub 🙂 IIRC Mavic have done some, but with fat straight-pull spokes.
16H rears are fine as long as the whole wheel is designed around that, e.g. OG Shamals (fat straight-pull spokes again), WH-7700 (straight-pull, laterally crossed to improve bracing angle) etc. If you're building with generic components, which are by definition not developed as an integral system, stick to more conventional spoke counts.

Alright, I think I'll skip anything 16h then. If I can find a 24h - loads of rim brake rear wheels about in 24h - I might go for it and see how it works out.

@danstuff I'm just a weirdo, don't try to make sense of it. the username tells you most of what you need to know.

If this plan puts me at risk of death please do warn me though.

If this plan puts me at risk of death please do warn me

This plan puts you at risk of death 💀

Specifically, clincher rims with worn brake tracks are at increased risk of catastrophic separation of the wall from the bed, which results in a thrown tyre. This is dangerous enough if it happens while you're pumping up the tyre, if it goes while riding there's very little chance that you'll stay on the bike.

What I mean is there must be a sweet spot between "too worn for further braking" and "too worn to maintain structural integrity" right? If there's a rim wear indicator I assume it denotes this point. Or to be more specific, the rim wear indicator indicates that if you continue to brake on it you will soon compromise the structural integrity of the walls. But with a safety margin and a little dash of planned obsolescence thrown in.

If you continue to ride it without braking on it, sure it probably won't last very long, but should get plenty of mileage out of it until the spoke bed bits start to fail or the walls fail due to pot holes and whatnot.

With the wrong brake pads I have no idea, again I assume that "braking on this rim will be deadly" does not mean the same as "this rim will explode when you put a new tyre on it" but I am more than willing to accept I'm wrong on this one - I don't want to mess about with delamination and stuff

I would obviously have to find rims that hit that sweet spot which could be difficult... but given that they just get thrown away otherwise and there's no market for them, there's probably a lot of them about

Stop being a cheapskate!

I need to rebuild a wheel. I got a bit rad on my way too a gravé ride and cracked my rear Mavic Open Pro CD :-/

• I intend to keep the hub (DA7900) which means 32 spokes.
  
• I don't care about 'matching' the front Mavic rim aesthetically.
  
• Braking on this wheel is done with a mini-v brake.
  
• I may run this wheel tubeless at some point.
  
• I'll use Sapim Race spokes and brass nips (I guess).
  
  

Which rim though, for singletrack, gravel and occasional cx, currently running 40mm tyres + latex tubes?

Kinlin TL-23 (symmetric). Wide. Not rim-brake approved.

Kinlin XR-22RT (asymmetric). Not so wide.

Is there a clear advantage to either?

I just hate this crap rim I've got and am trying to upgrade it without spending any money on a new one, but yeah, I guess that's not a good enough reason for a dalliance with death.

Okay, you all talked me out of it. My sincere thanks. Plan shelved. For now...

there must be a sweet spot

But do you know where it is, or how to measure it?

No, I'd just have to guess based on wear indicator. Or using one of those dental enamel thickness gauges that people check rim wear with. I wonder how much they differ from aluminium? Rule of thumb is >1mm and it's still good right? I guess as long as it's about as thick a disc brake rim wall it's probably okay?

Edit: this is an academic discussion at this point, I'm not going to do it. But am still curious if it's possible. One of my flaws I think, I can't give up on an idea until I know exactly why it doesn't work

I like the idea of @frankenbike refusing to buy a 2nd hand rim because it isn’t worn enough and hasn’t hit the sweet spot of wear.

A rare case of reverse weenie savings, where the lighter (more worn) option is also cheaper ;)

Actually I did a rough calculation, 0.5mm of aluminium brake track weighs in the ballpark of 50g*! Cheapskate weeniegains.

* Seems too much, I think I must have made a mistake. Either way it's probably several percent of the weight of the rim at least I reckon

Being a cheapskate isn't very hhsb

No, I guess not, but no one can tell how much the rim cost from looking at it...

Actually, now that I think about it, a wheel with worn brake track might well be safer than an Aerospoke or a Spinergy or the other ancient carbon things that people still ride in that thread

Just received some Lightbicycle rims (60mmx23mm) - the ERD listed on their website appears to be out by 5mm... Am I measuring incorrectly or are they wrong?
234 x 2 + 57 = 525

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Clearly they're ready for the bin, just give them me for my cheapskate wheelset ;)

(just kidding)

to add something half-useful, you've probably already checked these but are the calipers zeroed properly and are the spokes threaded through to the right point of the nipple?

How about a 14h Rolf rim? I have one going spare that has possibly re-welded at the join. Would make for a good disc rim possibly? ;)

Thanks, threaded to the slot yes. Both the 234 and 252 pairs give same answer.

I would like to see your zero width 2D hub. Aren't you measuring in the plain of the rim instead of the hypotenuse from the spoke holes of the hub which will be displaced by some of the width of the hub?

Light bicycle has on other occasions listed nipple seat diameter instead of erd so you are probably doing it right making your own measurements..

http://forums.mtbr.com/wheels-tires/new-light-bicycle-38mm-rims-941499-2.html

What does "ERD is Mavic's Nipple Seat Dia + 3mm for nipples" mean?

How about a 14h Rolf rim? I have one going spare that has possibly re-welded at the join. Would make for a good disc rim possibly?

Haha, it would disintegrate the second I tried to brake with disc hub... If you're serious though and it's going in the bin anyway, maybe. Could chop it up and turn it into an ultra-bodge aero fairing or half-lace it to a 28h hub or something stupid.

Thanks Svenhöek, that's very helpful and reassuring. Will be ordering CX-Rays so could have been an expensive mistake!

Will double check in the morning to see if it is 4 or 5 mm out.

I think I might have to put this rim in the bin just to make sure you don't kill yourself on a worn, and rejoined 14h rim...

It's the 14h front hub and 16h fixed/free rear that would be more of interest to potential bodgers.