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I went in early June and when was still closed to traffic. We did get turned around before the top by snow blocking the road, unfortunately. Early summer would be ideal though before peak tourist season. Feels like you've got the whole region to yourself.
(Just noticed my forums pic is not far from there, possibly returning to base after Mangart attempt).
It's dead quiet. Mangart is pretty busy with traffic because of the views at the top, but I discovered a bunch of paved and gravel climbs that were basically empty. Can't recommend it enough