TW builds a bike shed

I forgot to photo the framing of the back wall, so here it is with the OSB skin & then cladding (150mm feather edge - cheap, practical, and will not be visible)

With hindsight, I would have done the fence after the shed, so that I didn't have to clad the rear wall before putting it up, but I think the neighbours are a bit done with having no privacy in the garden

Fingers crossed that the measurements are correct for the overlaps in the skin & cladding

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Next up - side walls.

When I did the shed, a guide I found suggested torch-on roofing felt - the sort you'd use on a flat roof. Logic being its much, much tougher than the stuff "designed for" sheds.

I may chuck a load on the top as soon as I finish the roof - that way, I don't need to complete the live roof straight away, and have more time for dithering.

Nice work! Spotted this thread a few days ago and you nudged me in to building a shed too. Starting tomorrow. Not as big yours, will be used for storing garden equipment. 2.4m x 1.2m x 1.2m with a sloped roof. What are your thoughts on Plywood vs OSB3 for the floor? I was thinking OSB3 for a bit of added weatherproofness.

Also feather edge vs shiplap cladding?

What are your thoughts on Plywood vs OSB3 for the floor?

I've gone for 22mm ply for solidity - the floor is always at least 2 layers away from the elements, and hopefully any runoff is well away from it

Also feather edge vs shiplap cladding?

Feather edge is rougher looking & less solid - I only have it on the fence-facing wall (as it's also cheaper)

I've copied your idea to do the rear face of my shed with feather edge, and then T&G for the rest. How are you going to do the corners? I have my feather edge flush with the studs right now and not sure how to make them meet. Currently thinking a vertical trim piece of wood nailed in from the outside and cutting the cladding on the sides to fit inside them.

Here's the guide I used:

https://www.fixmyroof.co.uk/how-to-felt-a-shed-roof/#

You can get different colours. I wanted green, but black/grey was cheapest*. Mine was seconds mineral torch-on stuff from ebay/some guys garden. One end was a bit knackered from being stood up on its end and another section was creased, but I just positioned it so those bits got trimmed off. Collecting was a bit more faff but it still cost the same/less than the thin shed stuff from Wickes.

But if I were you I'd throw on some cut up blue Ikea bags as an incentive to complete the living roof....

... although you could always put the living roof on top (pending weight restrictions).

*and matched the other sheds, preventing mission creep and wrath from Mrs. H. who already thinks 3 sheds and a brick outhouse is too much

Also what colour are you going to paint / stain it?

3 sheds and a brick outhouse

Never too early to start retirement planning.

Nice project. We are in the process of designing/building a shed/studio, it's gonna be 10' X 8', I can get hold of a shit load of used 13' scaffold planks for not a lot of money. Can anybody see any problems with using scaffold planks rather than traditional timber?

I'm using tanalised cladding (and all of the joinery as well, for that matter), so I'll leave it as-is.

The whole thing is covered in a blue tarp just now, while I sink into thought paralysis about how to finish the roof trim.

For framing or cladding?

I'd have thought they word be a bit unweildy for framing, assuming they're 38x225, and as they're not treated, probably not great for cladding

Cladding, was my original thought, but been and had a look at them today, quality is variable. May just buy a shed or back to my original plan of boarding then cladding over the top.

I actually framed & put up the side walls about a month ago - holidays meant no posting about it.

These and the front frame were relatively straight forward, although I did mess up the front a little bit, forgetting to put in one of the uprights.

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Before I noticed the missing uprights, though, I started on the rafters.

This was something that I'd been wondering how best to do, as I wasn't sure how to cut the birdsmouth with a circular saw or miter saw.

The tl;dr is that I cut freehand with a circular saw, then finished with a hand saw.

Whenever there were any bits that needed fine adjustment, I tuned them with a few whacks of a hammer.

After sizing up one, I used it as a template for the rest (10 overall)

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The aim was also to get the whole thing covered before going on holiday, in case there was any rain.

You can also see where I stuck in the new uprights on the front.

Having a pockethole jig meant that I didn't have need to take the frame down to do it.

I like pockethole jigs.

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Back from holiday, and time to stick a door on.

Where the floor, walls and roof were not too difficult, the door was a pain.

Despite measuring multiple times, cutting conservatively, offering up, tweaking & clamping, nothing ever seemed to fit.

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looking great, are you going to double up the door header (or put a few blocks in there)? That seems like a pretty big span for no extra support - especially if you're thinking of having a living roof?

pretty big span for no extra support

That's a good point

put a few blocks in there

And that's a good solution.

Looks great. Very tidy cuts on the rafters. I cheated with my doors and gave them an OSB back to make it easier to size up and made to fit.

Adding the OSB to the door afterwards was a challenge, for sure.

I had to figure out how to hold the frame in place from the outside - I ended up screwing in blocks on the inner frame that I could push against.

A few cuts later:

(limited photos, as I was busy swearing at wood)

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Again, in spite of measuring & offering up, once I put the hinges on, the door settled in a new position, and jams on the left side.

I'm waiting deliver of a planer, and I'm going to need to take at least 3mm off the door upright.

I have another pair of hinges, and I'm debating on doubling them up.

I expect that, once the roof is on, I'll need to take more off elsewhere, as things bend and twist with the weight.

^^ That's me in the picture, by the way. I'm quite petite.

You have a track saw? Or even your circular saw guide you made. I found it much easier to trim to shape that way than with a planer.

The settling might be because you have the hinges quite close together. Any reason you didn't put them nearer to the top and bottom?

I've reset the hinges now - made sure there was load in them before screwing in.

(This also meant removing a bunch of 75mm screws and nails)

Also, using M12 x 130 coach bolts pulls things together quire nicely.

I would have needed to cut 90mm deep along the full length of the door - my saw is too small for that, unfortunately.

I put the hinges where they can screw into the noggins. I've 2 more that I may put top & bottom.