Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Has anyone here built up a Surly Rabbit Hole rim? Any advice, tips and I am presuming you use only one side of the holes to get the off set?

@M_V and @withered_preacher - thanks both, all done... but will take it to v. helpful lbs to check my skills before riding / death.

have remained true over time

That's just what you think because you're a wrong'un. :)

Anyone know anything about the El Guapo £5 rim on PlanetX?

Been a while since I built up a set but you can lace one side or both sides depending on the hub. If it needs a big offset then just use one side but if it's symmetrical such as a non-disc front hub then use both. You may finding it tricky getting the dish correct as I found a regular Park dishing tool didn't work. I used one that a friend made for me with a larger angle and longer bolt. Also, as it's a single layered rim take about 1mm off the spoke length to prevent protrusion, as with any single layered rim.

Thanks Arup, been researching the net and reckon using alternate sides will be fine, it is a front that I will be building although with a disc brake I reckon the offset will be fine.

Cheers, stick with it.
@Oliver Schick, they're one man wheels.

I have build the Halo White Line Classic Road rims purchased from TREDZ. £42 a pair.

The quality and finish is much better than the Kinlin ADHN so would definitely recommend. 24mm wide so on 2018 trend I guess.

Built up on Condor track hubs with sealed bearings (pretty much the same as Joytech / Novatec / Quando / Planet X / Powerway / Tensile / UnoFix / 60-62mm flange ones).

Ideal spoke length is 292mm.
I had 290mm & 294mm at home so initially laced them with those but they were too short/long.

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Had a seatstay/spoke/stick incident. The spoke is visibly a little bit bent and the rim is obviously way out of true. Do I need to replace the spoke or can I just true the wheel again? It's 28h if that makes any difference. ACI Alpina spokes.

Just true it up and see what happens? I’ve ridden for extended periods of time on wheels with a bent spoke or two :)

I’ve got a Mavic wheel that I’d like to ID so I can buy a Shimano freehub to replace the campag one that’s on there.

It’s mostly been destickered, but I know it’s a ksyrium... but I guess that doesn’t help with iding the hub... How do I go about finding the info I need so I can buy the correct part?

Thanks

I eventually did that, looks okay now - the bent spoke was quite loose and straightened out when I tightened it back up. I'm just concerned as I'll be doing a ride this weekend and if my wheel fails at the wrong time I'll be stuck on a small island with no sleeping kit!

want to build some wheels for CX and fast summer duties

Hope pro4 hubs (can get at trade)
LightBicycle rims (probably these ones)

Spokes - probably 24f, 28r. Undecided on which ones.

Any advice on which spokes to use and if 24f 28r will be enough for a 92kg rider?

Any advice on which spokes to use and if 24f 28r will be enough for a 92kg rider?

24f28r should be ample I would've thought if you're using rim brakes. With 46mm deep carbon rims I would've thought 24r20f would be enough. And if fast road use is one of the intended user modes, I'd go for CX-Rays. But then I usually do.

Sorry, disc brakes/rims. Does that change anything?

Moah spokes. The spokes have to resist the braking forces. In that case I'd go 28f&r.

The spokes have to resist the braking forces

As opposed to rim brake wheels where the spokes get a free ride when the brakes go on?

The actual reason why you might want more spokes on a front wheel when you switch from rim- to disc-brakes is to maintain axial stiffness after the brake has stolen a large chunk of your flange spacing.

Right i've decided to build some wheels, no experience. I've bookmarked Sheldon Brown, shat myself reading the last 30 pages of this thread (it's like the theory of everything), got dura ace track hubs and Mavic pro rims. My budget for tools is about £150 (all being well i'd like to make a hobby of this as it is too late to take up the harp)
I'm thinking flip flop jig, nipple driver and good spoke key? Straight to park tools?

a wheelset for racing cross in winter and fast rides in summer

Using lightbicycle rims, planning on tubeless both for cross and for road.

\36mm, V - profile, 28mm ext./21mm int.(a bit lighter)](28mm external/21mm internal)

38mm V - profile, 23mm ext. width (site recommends these for 'cross)

45mm u - profile, 25mm ext./18mm int. (more aero but a bit heavier)

Or some other rim i haven't considered.

Which do I want? Only ever ridden alu clinchers so this is a bit new to me.

Go D-E-E-P. I have the LB 55mm wide U shapes and they are hilariously fun and laugh at crosswinds.

Isn't that first one a v not a u profile?

The light bike U is 35mm, lighter but a bit narrower I think.

You right - that is V. Corrected the OP

I guess i just want to understand more about widths and profiles.

Lets say I'm running 25mm in summer and 33mm (max) in winter - which rim width do I want?

Also, will a 38mm V shape be more susceptible to crosswinds than a 45mm u shape?

I thought no one was using V shapes anymore except Lightweight. Because U is better in almost every circumstance. I read an article about it. But I know almost nothing so take that with a pinch of salt.

Edit: found the article https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/u-shaped-deep-section-rims-198572