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• #627
@stedlocks so is there very little pad travel but it feels like quite a strong bite or is it the opposite?
I had road interupter levers on MTB brakes and they felt really mushy -
• #628
Well, I haven't ridden V brakes for quite a while, but they feel very good! Initial bite is very controllable, and modulation seems fine to me....and I can lock up both wheels if I wanted to....
Pads don't rub on the rims, and they seem set up ok.....I'm expecting to have to do some fettling soon, as the cables are going to stretch.. -
• #629
No they won't.
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• #630
My impression: I think you can do road levers and V-brakes, and they'll feel great when set up perfectly, but you need to run the pads really close in, and if the pads wear or the rim goes out of true they'll need adjusting.
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• #631
Beat me to it.
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• #632
I donβt want to doubt your engineering but I thought doubling up and using pulley(s) increased power but decreased distance.
My reason for thinking this is that when I worked in a climbing centre theyβd use pulleys and doubled (or tripled or more) ropes to lift people during rescues from height.
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• #633
A pulley can work either way around. If pulling loose end A results in half cable pull and double tension at loose end B, pulling loose end B results in double cable pull and half tension at loose end A. Right?
You could do the exact same thing at the caliper end of the system to half the cable pull, if you wanted to use V-brake levers with road calipers for example. Release the cable from the housing at the clamp somehow, loop it through the adjuster, run it back and clamp it normally.
Edit: it's just like gearing on a bike pretty much. If your gearing ratio is 2:1 then each turn of the cranks spins the wheel twice. Thus turning the wheel once turns the cranks 0.5 times.
Edit: really hope I've got all this right, I seem to be the only one who thinks it's going to work.
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• #634
Pulleys, how do they even work?
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• #635
Edit: really hope I've got all this right, I seem to be the only one who thinks it's going to work.
Two of us. Pretty sure youβve got it right.
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• #636
Magnets.
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• #637
I drew my own diagram and it makes more sense.
Iβm now positive you have it right.
1 Attachment
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• #638
Haha, you mean my beautiful diagram wasn't good enough??!!?!
But yeah, it's a lot clearer when you also show the non-doubled cable (i.e. standard routing) as you have done
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• #639
I'm pretty sure you got it right, but I'm also pretty sure you will run into friction issues.
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• #640
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• #641
Woah!
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• #642
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• #643
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• #644
Adapter adaptation feat. 1" expander bung
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• #645
Hmmm... A sawed off quill stem? Or what?
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• #646
I want to know too
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• #647
It's a quill -> ahead adapter ...
Tall stack stem was slippy with just bolts, so it's for added security with top cap but also to avoid any head / stem / apple core scenarios
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• #648
The fact that the stem itself is completely above the clamping area scares me slightly. I'd get one of these, they work a treat
https://www.jejamescycles.com/bbb-aheadstem-steerer-tube-extender.html
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• #649
As TvH says, lack of steerer (extension) length concerns me.
I had to choose a shorter height for my Gas Pipe stem so the steerer would reach the top as per advice in the thread.
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• #650
Well, did chat briefly to Sam about this and he wasn't concerned. Points taken though.
In my brain it makes sense. I'll try it on my bike on Sunday or maybe tonight.