Car appreciation... the aesthetics, the engineering, etc

Turns out that I do have overdrive. I just needed to get a stretch of fourth gear to get it engaged and happy, now it seems to be working in third as well.

Will give it a proper test on some A roads or MWay, when I can.

Trying to test it on urban residential roads is not easy.

Your best bet is some Porsche specific ones, 102dB is pretty punchy.

It's almost silent at cruise, barks a bit on start-up but idle is very quiet - it's only at high RPM that it starts to get a bit shouty. 102Db is quite shouty, I admit.

I've emailed a couple of places about getting Porsche specific ones.

Ah makes sense.
Jump start power pack I bought didn’t have enough juice to turn it over properly but everything electronic fired up ok so I assume it is just the battery. Picking a trickle charger up later so hopefully that’s it.

My GT6 used to be like that (and I assume it's a similar overdrive setup) - it woudn't flick straight in at times, you had to go for a while in third or fourth, sometimes going up and down on the revs a couple of times before it lurched in. The Dolly Sprint just went straight in, any gear / rev count.

I remember reading that it was apparently relatively common, but I'm not sure what the problem component was.

I suspect that the OD pump needs replacing. One of the issues with it yesterday was that the pump had seized (as well as a raft of electrical fun, caused by a short melting some of the loom). If the pump isn't working perfectly, it seems to me that the oil pressure might be a bit low, causing the planetary clutch to be sluggish in engaging.

I'm told that the pump is meant to make 450psi, which is needed to engage the planetary clutch. Seems very high to me and would probably need a pump that is operating nominally.

Just out of interest, why 5,250rpm?

All the car's i've built have to go through MSA noise test at scruiteneering, we always struggled with the test protocol and rear engine'd cars specifically.

They always test at 4500rpm though

Chap said "where's your redline?", I said "7,000rpm", he said "five and a quarter and hold it".

the actual wording is 2/3rds of max rpm so makes sense i guess

I once measured a friends XE-engined Mk2 Escort Stage rally car. Fitted with a Prepfab exhaust and big Webers it was over the DB limit for Croft on induction noise alone #CSB

Socks!

https://heeltread.com

I once measured a friends XE-engined Mk2 Escort Stage rally car. Fitted with a Prepfab exhaust and big Webers it was over the DB limit for Croft on induction noise alone #CSB

Yeah, I'll be totally screwed when the ITB's go on, hey ho.

When you say voltage test, is there something I can do to test if a module is pulling power it shouldn't?

Battery was near enough 14v with engine running, so alternator looks ok. Drove around for 90 mins or so and once turned off I got 12.7v.

Also ran diagnostics with a Carly and once I'd cleared all the original low-voltage errors, nothing new came up (during and after driving).

Anyone need a helmet for track days?
I've only worn it once. Shoei Qwest Blood flow in small. It cost over £300.00 but I'd like £110.00. Doesn't suit my classic style of motorcycle really and don't use it (has plans to get a modern sports bike but competing priorities). Collection from SE6.

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Most popular faults for a battery drain are Tailgate glass window switch, Does it open on its own at times when starting the car?, or if it has a panoramic sunroof the rear drains can block water then fills up the boot shorting out electronic modules.

When you do fit a battery fit same size and type and register the change in the vehicle electronics, if you go for a different size or type it will require programming.

Edit to add terminal 30G relay will switch off non essential electronics based on current draw measured by the intelligent battery sensor (they can go faulty as well) things like radio audio, heated rear windows, air con non essential items will be switched off to preserve battery voltage to allow the car to start so they switch off before it drops below 11.5 volts,
4.7v is a hefty drain.
To check for a current drain use an ammeter in line with the negative lead of the battery, we usually open all the doors and roll the door catches and boot, fit an ammeter in parallel, then wait 30 mins for the system to go to sleep then disconnect the earth lead at the body so now everything is going through the ammeter, anything over 60ma is too much, you can disconnect fuses to isolate circuits, but remember if you put any back in straight away you risk waking the car up and another 30 minute wait :)
I also use an infrared laser thermometer to measure temperature of components anything too warm is a suspect :)

Where are you based?

I have a Shoei Qwest, it's great.

Can definitely recommend.

Don't you have the NXR as well? If so, which one is quieter?

Is blood flow the best name for a bike helmet?

I don't fully understand why on some days it's allowed to drive on track with a higher decibel output, I would have thought a noise ceiling was in place so as not to unduly disturb those living nearby? Or is it some sort of brokered deal that you can play with the extra loud toys on Thursdays only?

As in I would have thought it'd be a case of 98db and that's it.

(genuine question)

Long story short...

My previous car failed its MOT and the bill was more than the car's worth. The garage were supposed to SORN it, however, I just checked it's MOT status.

*Date tested
26 June 2018
FAIL
Mileage
139,290 miles
MOT test number
5592 7762 2144
Test location
unavailable until further notice
Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Front Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Front Brake pad(s) less than 1.5 mm thick (1.1.13 (a) (ii))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
car fully undersealed can't be inspected under neath
hand brake reseve travel high
What are defects and advisories?

Date tested
22 June 2018
FAIL
Mileage
139,279 miles
MOT test number
5394 1284 2343
Test location
unavailable until further notice
Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Front Brake disc in such a condition that it is seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Brake servo inoperative (1.1.10 (a) (ii))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
Nearside Front Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a))
Nearside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
Nearside Brake pipe excessively corroded Front to rear (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Brake pipe excessively corroded Front to rear (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Front Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (5.3.4 (b) (ii))
Offside Front Service brake excessively binding (1.2.1 (f))
Nearside Front Wheel bearing rough when rotated (5.1.3 (b) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Offside Rear towing bracket heavily corroded*

Suddenly all the corroded brakepipes have been covered in underseal and 'can't be inspected'!

I'm guessing a £700 Ford Focus has been quickly sprayed and sold on?

They usually have a maximum number of days in a week or month that they can run 102 or 105dB days, the rest of the time it's 98dB. Another reason I prefer test days rather than track days - they usually run to MSA 105dB limits. And the FuryRacer only just scrapes by on 105dB tests thanks to a 13krpm red line.

I have a Qwest and a Neotec II.

Qwest is definitely quieter.

No surprises here - every "Porsche specific" track-day silencer that I've found is for the GT3.

Not in London unfortunately, Hastings. The rear window switch seems ok and we don’t have the pano roof - the only slightly dodgy things recently are finding the boot open one morning and finding 3 windows half open another morning but that could be due to inadvertent keyfob squashing.
The battery this morning was showing 12.3v and it started ok but that’s still a slight drop overnight. I don’t have clamps for my multimeter but I’ll see if I can borrow some from work - what do you mean by ‘roll’, should I basically lock it with the doors open?

Three windows open on a BMW in glorious scenic Hastings and it didn't get nicked? That is a genuine miracle! Dave at Saabtech on Bridge Rd is helpful and fairly inexpensive if you can't get this sorted with forum help.