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• #16852
I'm not usually a fan of double exposure, but yours are top!
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• #16853
thanks! usually im not either, find them sometimes too busy so tried to dial it down a little for mine
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• #16854
I developed some portra at home and need to scan it. Light box and macro lens?
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• #16855
So I’ve won a T2 on eBay tonight, suppose I’ll have to make it work now that I’m shooting 35mm!
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• #16856
The FF70 works!
Both are Fujicolor C200 @ 100
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• #16857
Try printing some of your M6/Voightlander images at A0/1 before you go to see how they look ? Drum scan will help as long as the lens is sharp and the subject is in focus, if you're after a sharp look that is.
A large part depends on your style, how do you want your prints to look ? Moriyama and Klein print quite big and their images are often quite soft and had gobs of grain (when they shot 35mm film). Michael Kenna conversely shoots 120 Tri-X on a Hasselblad and prints tiny in comparison at 8x8"
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• #16858
Really like the first one
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• #16859
Wood Path - Canon EOS 300x, 28-105mm f3.5/4.5, Ekar.
City Alley - Mamiya ZM, 28mm f3.5, Ultramax
Country Cottage - Olympus Trip 35, XP2I really need to get around to culling my cameras...
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• #16860
Couple of snaps from a ride I did to Lille last week. Contax T/Ektar (first roll through this camera, still learning how to focus with it :))
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• #16861
Number 2 is very nice indeed.
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• #16862
Number 2 from both @Ste_S and @alvinstraight
ColorPlus 200 through the FF70, such a cool camera.
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• #16863
Happy to see so many of you enjoying the nice weather and shooting out in the sun!
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• #16864
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• #16865
Whats everyones thoughts on the Broncia SQA?
Also im guessing with that camera i'm gonna potentially need a light meter, would I need a spot light meter since I'm wanna do landscape stuff? I've never used a proper one or owned one before so not sure what to actually look for in one.
Thanks
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• #16866
I never shot with one of these myself, but heard good things about them.
Back in the day I intended to buy one, but they were still very expensive then, so I shot friends' Mamiyas and Hasselblads instead (still do, haha!)..Not sure what makes you think you'd need a spotmeter for landscapes.
Yes, you will definitely need a light meter of some sort - but (depending a bit on how forgiving your film is) it's not rocket science - in a lot of cases an iPhone app will do the job just fine - especially when shooting landscapes, and especially when shooting colour negative film (err on the side of over-exposure, and use common sense - point the thing a the stuff you want to meter, not "somewhere"). -
• #16867
beautiful stuff, lovely colours.
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• #16868
Nikon F6 / 50mm F1.4G /HP5 / Ilfosol 3 Developer
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• #16869
Nice, nice, nice.. love the greys..
Also that's a proper good beagle picture!
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• #16870
Not sure if you have noticed but I have taken a few over the years.....
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• #16871
Now to learn to print these as well...... that is the challenge.
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• #16872
Really struggling with a first world problem. I like shooting film, but there's still part of me that wants a digital camera, so that I can make mistakes that aren't costly (like they are with film), learn more about ISO, apertures etc etc. My K1000 is totally manual and I really, really enjoy using it. It's just not suitable for all occasions, for example taking on a bike ride.
The two options I am thinking of are: to buy a premium point and shoot, like Amey's Nikon 35Ti so I have something small to compliment my K1000. Alternatively, I could buy something like a Fujifilm X70/X100 that still has manual everything and somewhat resembles the experience I get with the K1000. I could easily pick up an X70 as well as a Nikon L35AF (for my small film camera fix) for the same price as a 35Ti.... One seems more sensible than the other. Do really like the 35Ti though...
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• #16873
The camera doesn't really matter unless you have printing requirements, and I don't think you do. And all good compacts have very similar specs, so it's not like one lens can produce a type of image another can't. If you decide you need some special use lens to make the images you want it's going on an SLR either way. You'll probably learn more on digital.
Except, it does matter to how you feel, and how inspired you are when you shoot.
With that in mind I think option 2 is best for you. It expands your options, and you can spend more $$$ when you know what pictures you really want to make. But if you go out with some other camera and regret not taking option 1, you should take it. You can always sell a 35Ti. (BTW, I don't think a 35Ti is a super small easy and causal carry.)
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• #16874
My K1000 is totally manual and I really, really enjoy using it.
It's just not suitable for all occasions, for example taking on a bike ride.I get what you're saying, yet there's a simple solution to this: take it anyway.
Remember there's people in this thread that go climbing with a RB67.
: ]premium point and shoot
I love good point and shoots, and of course small and light cameras with a good lens are a nice thing.
They tend to be expensive though (think of all the film and dev you could pay for with that money!)
and most can break easily and cannot be repaired. Also you will not "learn" much I guess.something like a Fujifilm X70/X100 that still has manual everything
and somewhat resembles the experience I get with the K1000.Don't do it.
I'd say buy a lot of film / set money aside for developement / scans / prints.
If you really want to buy something get another nice lens for your pentax!
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• #16875
I think Theo's message goes with what my head is saying, but yours goes with my heart.. ha. So, I think you may be right. Not sure a K1000 was made to be worn on a strap whilst riding up a mountain the Dolomites but I'll give it a go. Might get some kind of small bar bag like this to put it in to save my back and also to stop the viewfinder from steaming up. Think I may also buy a shit load of C200 and just shoot loads of it instead of Portra seeing as it's a third of the price. Oh, and a 28mm lens for a wider view of mountains.
I’ve printed like 20x18 before but wanna print like A1 or A0 and wasn’t sure how it would hold up.
My M6 has a Voightlander 35 2.5 on it right now which isn’t the sharpest but just don’t know if I can afford the Summicron I’d love before I go!
Hence why I was looking at a T2 or a 120 camera as they can be had for around 500!
I know that Film Dev can scan the images on a drum scanner and the files are massive so potentially that could be the winner in the full situation as upose to maybe getting a medium format and then having to take the time on every shot when potienally I can get it on 35 and it’s not far off the same.
I think photographers Akila Berjoui and Cameron Hammond are shooting 35 for most Stuff and are selling pretty large prints!
Just tryna make the most of the time I’m away, gotta sort film too but I think I’ll shoot mostly everything on Portra 400 like I usually do!