Home DIY

Roof flashing?
*new page innuendo

When I say new, it's 12 years old the 'new' part. No signs of any weakness to date. But yes, it's something that was pointed out.

We've had 28 days of days of no rain. Can't say I remember that in my lifetime.

A guy pole with a hook at one end to go through an anchor bolt in the ground and one at the other end to go through a d loop.

Can I buy this?
What's it called?
Where?

Alcove shelving; I need 4 floating shelves.
MDF seems easiest and most popular solution. Any reason not to go with this?
What might I expect to pay?
Anyone here got a chippy reccomendation or a carpenter themselves? SE4 Brockley

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Cool. Thanks for the advice I'll hire one of those and go at it.

Get yourself quality drill bits, say 5.5 & 8mm, and drill without any hammer, slabs are brittle.

Anchor bolt packaging stated 14mm drill (guess that's what the sleeve expands to, drill minimum of 50mm deep).

I've also got the option of the shed base (concrete).

Epoxy resin is a good option for anchoring bolts, comes in a tube, squeeze it into the hole and plunge a bolt in, stuck solid in seconds. You need to clean the dust out of the hole properly first though. Never had much luck with expanding bolts. Also 2 is better than 1.

Depends how long and how many sides supported - given a choice I would use baltic birch.

Our water pressure is pants, is there a way of resolving this that doesn't require banging a big tank somewhere in the flat?

Not sure if anyone said, but you just have a motor pump fitted.

It makes the world of difference. A mate's put them in his last two flats which were on 3rd floors of edwardian conversions. Before you'd have to wash each bit of your body piece by piece, after it was like having a good shower.

Some can be noisy, so strategic placement might be necessary depending how close to the bedroom your shower is. But my limited understanding is they aren't fussy about how close to the shower they are.

Any reason not to buy the ready-made Ikea ones?

Or do you want a flush fit with the enclosing walls?

Epoxy was a thought initially (well no nails obvs).

Epoxy was used in coal mines to fix roofing bolts when I was a lad. Admittedly these were several feet long: the resin and hardener came in polythene tubes that were inserted the full depth of the hole then mixed by spinning the bolt with a pneumatic borer. It worked well enough in the '70s (there's a lot of 'roof' to hold up when you're over half a mile down)- I can only imagine things have improved since then?

Without being all tester, isn't that a compression problem? Whereas the bolts in the ground to hold a sail in place is more of a tensile elastic problem?

Anyone know what is required to allow this gate to slide over the switch? The head of the unit isn't raising or lowering.

Edit. It was just being a bit difficult / user error

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Bolts driven into the roof (and sides) of the roadway to hold spreader plates and sheeting in place - something like 1 inch diameter bolt with a significant nut - mainly to stop loose stuff falling in. The section of bolt between the epoxy and nut is in tension - the excessive length is to reach solid (or at least immobile) strata. Perhaps I should have placed more emphasis in 'coal mine' and (implied) underground. Illustration to follow (not my finest work)

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Illustration is top work!

Depends how long ago you were a lad?
Back in '93 I was car sharing with another guy whose job had relocated from Lo don to MK. He was responsible for some 2-component epoxy grouts, including one packaged in a concentric tube. One Monday we rolled up the M1, and he got on the phone to the (distant) factory to discuss yet again QA problems with that Zone's manufacturing manager. He had never heard the nirmally taciturn mm so happy. 'Last time we'll talk!'
'Huh?'
'Over the weekend the manufacturing equipment and all the raw materials were shipped out to the Polish factory. There's not enough demand in the UK to justify the factory space'.

Don't think epoxy grouts will ever be displaced from that application.

with all the external wood as dry as it can be currently took the opportunity to sand and re teak oil the patio doors

looking lovely

I was down t'pit from '78 to '86. All grown up and doing other things before the NCB became UK Coal - the industry contracted significantly after that, with much coal being imported from Poland...

Around 90cm, depth around 30cm.
Ideally I’d like them floating or looking minimal/ sleek I guess.
I’m open to ideas the mdf seems like the default not very exciting but functional.
Advantage of the birch?

Strength and depending on how you finish them, looks.
You can go much thinner with BB than you can with MDF.

Illustration is top work!

Needs a poo to be compliant with accepted LFGSS sketch specifications.