Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

you mean tight routing from the chainstay to the mech? seems like all the shimano mtb mechs (and the newer road ones too, based on the little bit of housing they give you) have a pretty direct route to the mech nowadays. good to hear it works with a 40 though. did it shred them at the shifter? maybe i ought to check mine.

For what it's worth, I ran an SS 6870 with 11-42 and a 46 single up front. It shifted up to 40t ring without grinding and the B limit at a little under max. Long-ish hanger though.

bitch please. you must not have any steep hills around you, or you don't weigh anything and are super strong/never get tired.

Could not agree more. I don't know what everyone else is riding but I've ridden up stuff unladen where I had to get off and push with my 34/11-42 not being low enough. I have never, ever regretted having too low a gear. I don't know, maybe people have never tried riding through a perfect storm of heavy gear, 30mph headwind, rain/mud/snow, fatigue and steep slopes - which I thought was the whole point of gravel riding personally.

Or maybe I'm just weak. Still, I'm fitter than 90% of casuals, so if I can't get up a hill they certainly can't, and Shimano should be making something for them/me.

word. people seem to think having big gears wins them some sort of manliness . if you want to do that ride a single speed up mountains. that shit is impressive. when i blow past some dude struggling up a 15-20% paved pitch in 36-28 at 40rpm i don't think "wow he's hard." my power goes down if i'm doing 40-50rpm, so if i want to go as fast as i can i get the appropriate gears for my w/kg. i mean if froome is going to ride 34-32 up the zoncolan then we all probs need a bit more gear-inches for any similar terrain. plus like you say, some of us get tired.

I lied before, clearly I can agree with you more :)

bitch please. you must not have any steep hills around you, or you don't weigh anything and are super strong/never get tired.

Hear hear.

Off road/gravel gearing is vastily different, even my 30t inner ring with a 34t cassette was a struggle.

Stuff!

40 x 11-30t

700c wheels

Lots of dismount, shoulder, remount business happens ;-)

I'm thinking 34 or 36 x 11-42 on my light touring gravel bike and 42 or 44 x 11-36 on my all-road/road plus bike. Do that sound reasonable?

https://www.curvecycling.com.au/collections/forks/products/cc-29er-bp-15mm-fork

I'd avoid this if it's as badly made as most of their stuff.

Gravel/tour spec sounds fine to me.

44x11 is a bit too low for group road riding imho.

44x11 is a bit too low for group road riding imho.

Not really, you either need to work on your cadence or learn to descend better. My cross bike has 40x11 max and Marathons for the road, it has never been problem.

Isn’t that like 60 rpm for 30kmh? Sounds plenty to me
My commuter is 42t 11-32 and I’ve not been dropped by a road bike

Guess they're trying to cover all bases with the clearances, pondering the feasibility of selling my tcx frameset and swapping over as much as possible..oh dear here we go again..!

I, like most prefer to stay around 95rpm. 44x11 becomes a bit light around 55kph.

This may or may not apply to you.

You either need to work on your comprehension or learn to converse better :-)

My commuter is 42t 11-32 and I’ve not been dropped by a road bike

Whilst commuting presumably. Now take it on a local chain gang.

Saw this in another thread. I like it.

Why? I’d take the road bike with 53/39 11/28 ;)

Best bang for buck directmount 1x chainring that doesn't look hefty. Any links?

I quite like the look of garbaruk chainrings

Is it?

If you're descending at 55kph, more can be achieved through your position on the bike than can through pedaling. If you're doing 55kph on the flat you must be Chris Boardman in the 90s

Cool!

That’s for sale by @eyebrows isn’t it?