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• #14202
not my workshop though
Banned
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• #14203
Nice idea though. How practical is it vs traditional shoe racks?
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• #14204
I'd increase the width between the slots and the side a little bit to give it more strength. Could add a foot, or wall attachment hole at the top, but I think it's sufficiently stable. You can pick it up and move it without the shoes falling out. Bonus for if you wanted to do hoovering (not that I advocate such levels of tidyness)
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• #14205
I'd really like to make a batch out of decent ply, and paint the edges/insides of the slots.
orders?
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• #14206
Could be interested in this. Any idea of the end price?
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• #14207
If I made 10 of them, they would be £9 plus delivery. Royal mail would charge £12 but I guess other couriers would be quite a bit cheaper. Or I could bring up to London and distribute from somewhere central.
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• #14208
At that price, I'd take at least 2 - it's not worth borrowing your design and making my own ...
What sort of dimensions did you work to? Something like 40mm slots?
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• #14209
correct, 40mm slots. Width is 21cm and height is 125cm. Both fairly arbitrary - was dependent on the wood I had to hand.
these are for kids shoes - for adults the slots would be slightly bigger - an adidas shell toe would fit, but a merrell doesnt quite - and it would need to be slightly wider.
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• #14210
You could make it more of a process with a jig for the holes and just run a cutter with a radius inside the jig using a copy ring.
I would worry about it crushing the toes of my shoes. Maybe I should talk to someone about that. :)
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• #14211
Aye, one-off it's a bit of hassle, but you could set up for production pretty easily.
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• #14212
i did make a jig, but forgot to take into account the width of the collar on the cutter, so it would have ended up coming out too small. i'd make a small and large jig for a batch run.
your shoes would be fine, i think. nomoneybacknoguarantees :)
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• #14213
But I keep them in the boxes !! Then I stack the boxes for a makeshift shoe rack. :)
I do usually have a few pairs lying around though, this could be useful for that kind of thing.
What about using laminated ply and leaving the contrast between laminated outside and ply texture holes (or paint the holes in a contrasting colour). I'm not a huge fan of ply but I've rarely worked with the furniture grade stuff. Pine is a lot lighter too.
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• #14214
for the pine i thought about painting the insides and edges but probably wont now they are more rounded off.
laminated ply is harder to work with? more likely to splinter at the edges perhaps.
ideally i'd have an app and a cnc router so you just plug in the number of shoes you have lying around and it cuts the appropriate amount of holes.
some friends are coming over tomorrow night, so i will see if i can drum up a few orders from them
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• #14215
I’ll take one!
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• #14216
I will have one!
Maybe two... -
• #14217
I need to slightly widen a 10'ish mm rebate in a door frame (it holds an intumescent fire strip).
Ideally, a 10mm straight router bit would get rid of the paint and widen it enough but I don't have a router.
Apart from sanding down the entire rebate (which would a PITA and take ages) is there a crafty way to do this?
I've considered getting a router bit, putting it in a drill and letting the existing rebate guide it.
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• #14218
Chisel?
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• #14219
Plough plane?
Looking at eBay 'sold' listings, around £20 for a usable Record - you'll probably still need a chisel for the ends... -
• #14220
Either way it’s a pain in the arse.
Mark it up first with a marking gauge or mortise gauge.
Rent a router and use a bit narrower than the groove width you’re aiming for.
You’re still going to have to finish the last 6” with hand tools.
If you try to create a 10mm groove with a 10mm bit it will not work, you have to use a narrower bit and relieve each side.
You cannot use a router bit in a drill, they are all too slow and uncontrollable.
Or... a chisel and mallet.This is a rebate.
https://www.wonkeedonkeetrend.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/Trend-router-cutters/rebates.jpg -
• #14221
I use a rebate plane to do this kind of thing if it's got to that stage. I can't really visualise what you're trying to do though, a rebate plane will only work if it's either the right width or you are removing the door stop to widen the groove.
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• #14222
Have you seen the 'homemade' cnc router system which is made from an 8x4 board some motors and string. Can't direct you to the video but there's a few out there. There are quite a few affordable cnc kits.
The laminate is not that bad to work with from the little experience I have with it.
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• #14223
Yes, would be a good thing to try one day. I think I've got enough tentative interest to make a batch. Will set up a list.
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• #14224
Sorry, my bad. Not a rebate, more a slot in the middle of a door frame.
The intumescent strip in the door frame is damaged so needs to be replaced. However the new one won't fit square into the existing slot.
My usual method of light tapping with a wooden mallet isn't working, it just damages the replacement strip. The slot just needs to be a fraction wider...
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• #14225
Just get a really sharp utility knife, adjust it so that the depth is equal to your requirements and use a straight edge to keep things tidy. Clean up with chisel.
'Intumescent' - had to google.
yes, pretty sure the router table and the welding bench in the background are home made. not my workshop though, just a shared space I have access to, so don't have any info really