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  • The lock ring only turns about half a turn before it's right

    Tight as in hard to turn, or tight as in it has compressed the cassette so that all the sprockets are immobilised? First thing to check is that you can run the lock ring in to full depth by hand with no sprockets mounted on the freehub body. If you can't, there's an issue with either the freehub body female thread or the lock ring male thread. Check for any damage, burrs or captured foreign objects. Don't go any further until you can pass this step. Thread damage typically occurs when the lock ring has been cross threaded, which is easy for the ham fisted to do as the helix angle is so shallow.
    Next check that you have all the parts assembled in the right order, with the right clocking, and properly seated against one another. Once that's done, the lock ring shouldn't even touch the lock ring spacer until you have at least a couple of turns engaged, so you can get a decent amount of engagement by hand tightening before you set about it with the wrench.

  • Thanks.

    I've tried all that and the freehub body is definitely too short. It must be an 8/9 speed only hub. (FH M525 VIA-M)

    Edit: reading back what I've typed it sounds wrong, but I'm positive the lock ring and hub threads are fine and the cassette properly installed - yet the lock ring won't properly engage.

  • It must be an 8/9 speed only hub

    8/9-speed HG freehubs take 10-speed HG cassettes, in most cases with a 1mm spacer because of the undercut on 10-speed cassettes with spider-mounted big sprockets. I thought the 11-speed MTB cassettes were supposed to have an even bigger undercut to allow them to fit on 8/9/10-speed hubs too.

  • Maybe your 11s mtb cassette has the 1.85mm spacer needed for 11s road bodies attached to it.

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