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Plenty of scope for subjective reviews. Aesthetic balance, proportion. Innovation, history, new manufacturing methods etc.
Not really any different from reviewing clothing, after all clothes from Primark serve their primary purpose just as well as those from Prada but that doesn't stop people from having opinions.
The thing, is what's the point? From my basically luddite perspective, unless the watch objectively fails at telling the time, the rest of it is just personal taste.
What sort of criticism would you offer in reviews?