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• #527
In what way is it not fitting?
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• #528
of course... there are a million reasons, from clearance to just a odd reason to the designer just allowed for 140mm and didnt think about 160mm
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• #529
I'd replace the stay. You could patch it up but thats bodging rather than fixing.
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• #530
Its Max which is going to make that a bit more expensive or difficult I imagine
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• #531
It's weird as 140mm fits perfectly I'd have thought the specific 140 to 160 adapter would work but it doesn't seem to. The rotor just doesn't fit, It hits the top of the caliper making it impossible to get the wheel in...
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• #532
You have the adapter on the right direction? its like a small wedge no? Just use some washers/spacers as long as your bolts are long enough
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• #533
Yeah got it pointing the right way ;)
Will try some washers / spacers was hoping i didn't have to bodge it
Bolts should be long enough as I have the longest ones you can get
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• #534
Is the adaptor different for front and back? You trying to use a front one?
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• #535
I know the adapters usually have an arrow that points to the front but I had to flip an adapter the "wrong" way for 160 on post mount recently. Wondered if its the same.
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• #536
Very different, one wouldn't fit the other
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• #537
Yeah definitely got the rear one.
I'll have a further play this evening. Got frustrated yesterday and gave up!
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• #538
What frame is it out of interest? Lee Cooper?
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• #539
You keep your hands off!
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• #540
😂
Seriously though no more buying for me :)
I’ve got a Max frameset for sale that you might like if you can’t fix the chainstay for whatever reason.
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• #541
Max tubing is easy enough to get still...max lugs are not!!
Post a picture of the damaged area mate
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• #542
Yours isn’t broken frame price though. It’s not the max aspect I’m after, I just liked the frame
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• #543
No worries at all man. Varonha has single chainstay repair starting at £70. Dunno if that already includes the tube or not but I guess it’d be a bit more for a Max Chainstay.
Out of interest what would be an acceptable bodge and would it turn out much cheaper..? Maybe if you are planning to do it yourself ?
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• #544
No idea. Not sure I'd give it a go. Depends how close to the joint is. File the crack and fill it with braze? Braze on a small band around the crack?
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• #545
I personally wouldn't put silver/brass in a cracked tube as it will go again, maybe not straight away but it will.
A plate would do but if you are looking at £80ish for it to be done properly, surely its a no brainer?
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• #546
You have brazing stuff? Want practice brazing a DT shifter mount for me in exchange for monies/beer?
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• #547
You wanting silver or brass?
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• #548
No idea, whats the difference? Wouldnt mind getting some bottle mounts put on the DT of the rych as well if thats possible? Although might mean the paint gets a bit fucked up which would be a shame
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• #549
From my learnings on here: Brass is the standard but requires a hotter flame, silver flows a lot easier so can be more difficult to braze with and silver will work with stainless where brass won't.
You probably don't care as the result is the same but I might pick up some silver brazing stuff to practice with using mapp gas -
• #550
Yeah if the end result is the same im not fussed, whichevers easier/cheaper. You already got mapp?
If a frame successfully runs a 140 disc rotor at the rear (flat mount on chainstay) is there any reason why it couldn't run a 160 disc rotor with the adapter? I can't seem to get the 160 rotor to fit even with the adapter installed...