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• #13952
Thats some beautiful digging and soil.
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• #13953
Cool story, we never actually got to the bottom. It got deeper than the pipeline was going to disturb so we had to leave it. Was definitely man made and deeper than 6m, fuck knows what it was for.
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• #13954
I have missed the context and only saw the pic, but that sounds crazy. I usually dig the other way...
1 Attachment
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• #13955
£50 is not that expensive.
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• #13956
gas pipeline somewhere near Ruislip,
Was that the 'new' gas pipeline that went in to connect the Milford Haven gas terminal (eventually) to Hayes Power station?
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• #13957
Dunno actually. It was a big fucker though.
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• #13958
Hey DIYers, I need some advice on fitting kitchen wall units on a stud wall.
Most of the cabinets I can attach to the studs but there's a little 300mm wide unit that ends up between studs so I can only fit to the plasterboard. It will also be fitted to the units on either side.
I'm just wondering what the best plasterboard fixings to use are?
I'm thinking something like this, but is there something better?
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• #13959
These are very popular at the moment http://www.gripitfixings.co.uk/gripit-plasterboard-fixing/
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• #13960
Not really "Home DIY", since I'll be using it to build the interior for the not-yet-a-campervan Peugeot Boxer I bought this week, but...
I just ordered a Kreg R3 jig.
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• #13961
What about adapting the Ikea rail to your units?
Then you won't have to depend on plaster attachments. -
• #13962
Try "hollow wall anchors". I've used a load recently and they solve a lot of the usual problems. On the other hand a cabinet doesn't stress the plasterboard fixing as much as some applications because the weight is distributed along the wall as well as hanging off the fixing, there's also less movement than some applications. The gripit fixings are ok but they were specifically designed for radiators which require slightly different weight bearing characteristics.
You could also consider fixing the cabinets together to further spread the load.
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• #13963
My vacuum cleaner head doesn't fit in to the extraction port of my circular or mitre saw, it's too small. Anyone got any tricks to attach it? All I can come up with is wrap inner tubes until it fits but id like something a bit more permanent.
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• #13964
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• #13965
Ta. ordered.
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• #13966
Have a google for shop vac adapters or reducers.
Using your home vacuum may kill it - unless you DIY (or buy) a cyclone dust separator too.
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• #13967
I have workshop lust again.
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• #13968
I don't know the actual difference between a home vacuum or a work vacuum is, but I have a Titan wet & dry so I think its designed to be able to do this kind of thing.
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• #13969
Power, volume & filtering, I suppose. The Titan wet & dry looks more like a shop vac though.
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• #13970
I have a titan. I just cut down 2 of the slightly conical plastic tubes so that one fitted my mitre and circular saws and the other fitted my sander.
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• #13971
Were those accessories it came with?
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• #13972
Yes.
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• #13973
I'm embarking on fitting a "pulleymaid" type clothes dryer in my flat. How do I reliably find joists. I have tinkered with joist finders in the past but in general I think they are pretty useless for the money.
My approach was the delicately poke through the plasterboard and hope to find one then measure of that to find the others.
I'm also slightly concerned about the weight of the thing and whether I'll end up ripping the ceiling down if I don't do it properly/find joists. Any advice?
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• #13974
If someone needed to raise a shed, perhaps because they'd noticed the base on the exterior was damp, where could someone hire such a jack?
And what would they put between the base and the concrete base it's on? -
• #13975
Strong little magnets are the easiest way to locate studs in a wall or ceiling. They even work on old plaster and lath walls and ceilings, picking up the location of the nails far better than any 'stud finder'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y07DLhs2c70
Masking tape is a big subject. I have about 10 different types on the go. Green frog tape is expensive but does a good job masking between emulsion on walls and acrylic on woodwork, the yellow one is better sometimes depending on how fresh/stable the emulsion is. There's one I use that's white with wet paint printed on it, no idea who makes it but I use it for the edges of floors as it can be left down for weeks without leaving residue.
It's hard to find a masking tape you won't end up hating as every type has it's own qualities and it needs to be matched to the work. Kip & Tesa are probably the top brands.