Any question answered...

Ah. Gotcha. TIL something about fractions.

The tensioner pulls the chain out and so there's noticeably fewer links about the sprocket - I've lost maybe third of wrappage, I think. Slipping is a sharp 'snap' sound when I stand on the pedals to push off with my mighty nay awesome powers

I think I'm going to look at setting the tensioner to push the chain in (remove the spring) and fix it in place. And make sure my chainline is straight as. I tend to do things by eye and well... [marty_feldman.gif].

New chain on old sprockets can do that until it wears in a bit. Could be chainline - look along the chain from behind - is it straight?

What are these things I’ve found in my biek bits boxes in the garage and why do I want them?

Full set of do-dahs there.

Are you blind? They're clealy do-dabs!

It's a dead Transformer.

Probably a Decepticon scout.

Aha. Collector’s item. Must hoard for more years...

I have this tensioner and had the same issue. Sorted by fitting a half link to shorten the chain and get more wrap around the rear sprocket.

eyyy, that's really good to know! Thanks... so I'm definitely going to go for maximum wrap and try to make this set up a bit more oaf-proof.

The tensioner is chunkier than I was expecting - unscientific holding-in-the-hand method says it weighs more than the DA7800 RD it replaced, too. Hopefully it can be tweaked for a more 'fit and forget' operation.

Is there a stem with with a shorter clamping height than standard?

I have forks that are cut 1cm short so could do with a more compact clamp.
Even with no bearing cover it is too short #slammed

(*I think @mdcc_tester knows)

for a road bike?

i just got one of these for a mtb with a similar problem:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ragley-stubbing-stem/rp-prod122312

30mm stack height.

Clearly the blocky guys slot into the round guys and then are bolted in. Then the round guys rotate in something. What do the faces of the blocky ones look like?

They kind of seem like they'd fulfill the same purpose as brake shoes (positionable flat face, 4 of them) but are clearly not brake shoes. Unless they're for modern rod brakes or something mad.

this looks good!

It is for a small VISP Aero singlespeed bike but I would put an MTB stem if that allowed me to get it back on the road

i think i just googled low stack stem and that was the cheapest one that came up...

ITM Vista stems have a lower height than other brands I've used. I can measure the stack height of mine tonight if it helps.

I don't know if just removing the spring will allow it to be fixed in the push position. Mine rotated freely around the pivot so there was no way to fix it in place, just the spring forcing it downwards. I didn't look that far into it though.

https://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=2629

That's the exact one I remember visually!

Thank you for all your help, I will set eBay searches for both Syntace and Ragley.

(I texted @Sumo to cross check stack)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-31-8mm-MTB-Bike-Bicycle-Handlebar-Stem-Aluminum-Short-Riser-Fixed-UK/292509656244

There are chinese copies available so will probs get one!

That's the exact one I remember visually!

FSA do a very similar thing, the aluminium version is a lot cheaper than a Syntace, probably cheaper than a second hand one.
https://www.bike24.com/p2208403.html

What do washers do? Sometimes you have them on a bolt, others not. Should they be between moving parts?

With Application.FileDialog(msoFileDialogFold­erPicker)
    .Show
    Pathname = .SelectedItems(1) & "\"
End With

Specifies the path. It's a nice bit of code for inserting in any macro where you want a path.

What do washers do?

For plain washers:

1. Act as a thrust bearing under the nut or bolt head to reduce friction. Less friction means lower tightening torque for a given desired bolt tension.
   
2. Act as a load transfer bridge to spread the nut or bolt head pressure over a greater area