Any question answered...

Does anyone know what the differences are between the Shimano Dura-Ace BB-7710 'Track' and the 'Road' BB-7700? Does the 7710 have the same needle and ball bearing internals the same as the bb-7700?

I purchased a bb-7700 'without seals' and a 7710 has turned up.

Does anyone know what the differences are between the Shimano Dura-Ace BB-7710 'Track' and the 'Road' BB-7700?

Shimano knows. The tech docs are at Shimano.com...

Don't be @seafish :)

http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BB-7700-1657B.pdf
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/ev/EV-BB-7710-1786B.pdf

7700 is a thing of beauty and a joy forever, as long as you can find the parts, since it is rebuildable down to the level of replacing the ball bearing cones. 7710 is just a nicely made full cartridge BB, if something wears out you throw the whole thing away. I haven't cut one open, but if I did I'd be surprised to find anything other than the usual two ball bearings.

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Ah, thanks once again tester. I hadn't realised that tech doc was one of their usual exploded diagrams!

Think I'll return it then, I heard some people at Manchester use either the 7700 or the cheaper 105 version with the seals removed.

or the cheaper 105 version

If you're shopping for 105 (BB-5500), make absolutely sure that you're getting the v1, not the v2 with longer splines. Shimano tried to cover up their cock up by reissuing it after fixing the problem with the first generation Octalink without changing the part number.

Or break into my Dad's house round the corner.

DT Swiss 350 hub - how much play, if any, is acceptable in the freehub body.

Can probably wiggle my cassette 1mm side to side. No problem shifting, just still trying to eliminate these fucking squeaks.

Amazing, thank you.

Trying to read through it to understand a little- do I run this from a workbook saved in the desired folder? Excuse my ignorance.

You can pull them apart by hand to check the bearings.

I have it in my Personal macro workbook. When you run it it will bring up a dialogue box to let you pick the folder where the files you need to do the work on are.

Or you can just save it in any random workbook and run it from there. These instructions should be OK if you're not familiar with running macros https://searchengineland.com/how-to-use-macros-you-find-online-in-6-easy-steps-137786

Or mine :)

Are you my brother?

Er, don't think so :)
edit, Ha! Penny just dropped!

I know, I noticed the movement when stripping to clean. But how much is too much, they spin just fine, but they move a bit.

The ones I built up the other day felt pretty solid play wise, but they didn't have a cassette on to accentuate it.

Yeah, the bearings only move a little bit but with a huge cassette on it's probably exaggerated. It's been moving for ages with no issues so I'll leave it another year.

At least.

getting lots of rear punctures recently..... already tried replacing the tyre, so the new tyre is good and checked thoroughly - the tube seems to suggest its the same place and slightly on the tyre wall - could it be the rim??? its an old rim. i even put in kevlar insert into the tyre but today i got the same puncture....

If it's "the same" puncture, and it can't be the tyre, then it must be the rim.

Could be that whatever is piercing the tube, is only revealed when the tyre flexes enough to reveal it.

Any rough ground or notable bumps before you punctured?

"Any rough ground or notable bumps before you punctured?"
its a UK road ;-) but thinking about it , it could well be.... so when im sat on the seat putting pressure on the tyre and its bumpy and it hit a certain section of the rim - that could be the puncture?

excuse for a new rear wheel then :D

I had front tyre punctures on 3 consecutive days in the exact same spot of my commute. I went nuts trying to work out why. Turns out that my recently adjusted front brake was rubbing against the tyre wall and by the end of my commute, on that down hill, the heat became too much and the tube exploded.

Cheers, used to running them but can only decode about a third of that so couldn't understand how the path was specified. Will give it a go shortly.

I fitted a 'weaponized' brand (oblig. no, YOU'RE a weapon...) singlespeed tensioner Tuesday night and Wednesday's commute was much faster because I was able to change the 18t sprocket for a 16t one. Yay!
Except today the chain started slipping in the wet. Boo!
Because this was an emergency single speed conversion (my usual hi-ten beater is up on blocks) I have a feeling I slapped a 7/8 speed chain on there. Given the cog and chainring are supposed to be for a 3/32 setup - is that likely to be the problem?
Or is my chainline the issue?
Also, the tensioner seems to add a lot of noise to the whole transmission. So maybe I am answering my own question re. chain and chainline.
Just thought I'd ask here anyway! TIA...

Check for burrs, flakes of ano, ANYTHING that looks sharp.

And then it could also be the perfectly fine looking rim tape that's never given you problems and doesn't look even slightly problematic. I'm looking at you TransAmBastardWheel...

7/8 speed is 3/32, although a singlespeed specific one won't be designed to shift, never had any problems myself though.

Does it tension by pulling the chain out or in? How much chain wrap do you have around the sprocket? Where does the chain come off? What do you mean "slipping"?