Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

is the implication that you would only advocate tubeless on road tyres/wheels for those that are certified?

That's what I'd advocate, having had 15 trouble free years of UST tyres on UST rims. What I actually use on the road is the same DT R24 I was so scathing about above.

It is there as I seem to avoid these troubles but it means only using certain rims and smaller number of tubeless tyres that are known to work well together.

As mdcc tester is cyclists were less worried about weight and less obbessed with getting the cheapest deal well engineered solutions would appear. We have ourselves to blame. People spend £000's on a bike but cheap out on the tyres. I have a £500 car but buy the best tyres I can for it. they cost more than the car cost me 7 years ago but they keep me on the road and thats priceless.

is cyclists were less worried about weight and less obbessed with getting the cheapest deal well engineered solutions would appear

To be fair, cost reduction is a function of engineering and it has served cyclists well*. Given the low cost of failure, for most users it's worth sacrificing reliability to get lower initial cost.

*My dad just found the receipt for his Rotrax; £14.19s at a time when he was earning 23/6 a week as a drawing office apprentice. That's about £1900 to an apprentice on minimum wage today, almost enough for a Look 875

It does not stop people complaining about failures though.

Hello, are you a cheap bastard and/or someone who enjoys scooping up loose snot with a spoon? Then swapping tires without wasting sealant may be for you.

That's what the syringe is for

The Pro 1 on my front wheel now has holes. Probably done its time after 3,000 km. Don't think these are high mileage tyres. Back one only just made it past 2,000 km.

So after too much time spent messing about with punctured / non sealing / non seating road tubeless, I'm going to give this lark one last go.

Will strip the gorilla tape off my front wheel and replace with that non branded stans-alike stuff, and get some x-guard IRC tyres.

If these don't give me some hassle free miles, I'll be back to Duranos or Michelin Power Endurance with tubes.

Damn, which rim? Pro Ones sealed instantly for me even before adding sealant - easiest thing ever - and besides wearing rather fast have been flawless with Tesa tape and Orange. Not being a jerk, I'm just surprised. Schwalbe G speed setup yesterday similarly inspiring confidence - nice thick bead pinging into place with pressure and holding.

I agree though, it's got to be low hassle. I was happy with Duranos before switching.

DT Swiss 411.

Pro Ones did mount easily to be fair, just had quite a few punctures on the rear tyre, including the first ride on it, all of which didn't seal (stan's sealant). Eventually, the rear tyre gave up, probably due to being on and off the rim too many times.

Replaced with a Maxxis Parone which was difficult to get seated and ended up only lasting one weekend as a tubeless tyre (albeit two longish days round South Downs in some rather forgettable weather). Finished the weekend with a tube in it, which has been there ever since as air was coming through the sidewall. Could carry on riding it like that but want to see what these IRCs are like.

The not seating thing is the rim in this case Chasnotroberts. There is no ridge next to the well (unless I am mistaken) to stop the tyre unseating.

You have better luck with installation with different rims. There may also be an issue with the bead hook on this rim digging into and splitting tyres at the bead when the rider hits holes. The bead hook is possibly too small

Since the IRC X guard has bead to bead protection it should be less susceptible to pinch tears. The incident rate though is too low to draw any firm conclusions but I have my suspicions.

This tyre will cut less and take longer to wear out than the pro one.

The main problem has been the tendency to get punctures which I'm hoping the more robust tyre will reduce.

DT Swiss says internal width is 18mm. Should I get the 17mm or 21mm tesa tape?

I can thouroghly recommend the irc x’a. I’ve had them on all winter. They do not cut or puncture easily. I rode through some really horrible weather and road conditions with no problem. When they did puncture they sealed instantly (2 or 3 times). At the end of the winter I ended up with a hole that needed a worm. I’ve tried these with pro-one’s without success no issue with the irc’s.

internal width is 18mm. Should I get the 17mm or 21mm tesa tape?

21mm

Any idea's what vernier i can use to measure depth of a beak hook. For tubeless the min should be 2.0mm and it should be a part circle. I want to create a list of rims that dont conform and that can potentially damage tyres.

depth of a beak hook

Which dimension are you trying to measure?

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I have built up a sort of do it all bike.. it's a on-one titanium pickenflick CX with Halo 31mm wheels and sram 1x11 hydro group.. I would like a set of do it all tubeless tyres.. something for road but the very odd bit of light trail stuff.. Frame has clearance for 42mm. here is a pick with it running 25mm hutchinson tubeless, but they are a bit wee for the frame.. looking for some tanwall goodness too for extra points..

I was looking at Panaracer Gravel King SK - 35mm or what about just the gravelking non SK version?

anyone any other suggestions??

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I think someone had some 42mm in classifieds the other day. Yup here lol that's you. Small world huh

yeah, that's on my 650b wheels, but just want a do it all bike with no swapping wheels everytime!!

The bead hook thickness without section the rim. I don't think all them are round of 2mm thick.

And this is why I drew a picture; I still don't know what you're talking about, so I can't tell you which measuring instrument you need.

Reading the first post I see Tesa tape is pretty good value. I need 22mm there’s none listed on eBay currently. Is it normally or are the widths limited?

I need 22mm there’s none listed on eBay currently. Is it normally or are the widths limited?

The widths on offer depend on the reseller, standard roll widths are ½",¾",1", 2" & 3" but people buying it for sale to cyclists will get either foot wide or full width rolls and custom slit to suit the market. 22mm is certainly offered by some resellers.

Late to the party, but fuck me that's brutal! What rims are those? Do you have it seated now?

They're WTB i25 rims. Yeah it's back sorted now, I had to redo the rim tape and they're fine again. oh and clean off all the sealent in the shed, on my bike and in my hair.

That 2mm bead hook thickness and the 3mm depth essentially i want to generate a list of rim that conform and rims that don't. That should help people when buying tubeless tyres. I get a lot of email regarding problems but it always seems to be with some rims and not others.

The lastest is an SES 3.4 rim. I wont be sectioning a SES 3.4 rim to measure so I need another way but I am stuggling to find a suitable measuring tool.

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