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I just mention the tolerances as it is one of the thing that our teacher in engineering school go nuts over.
I'd consider a small chamfer on the inside of the hood. It will increase strength and most likely reduce machining time.
Anyways I'd much rather use a socket head wrench or ring type wrench with track dropouts than an open type.
There is room for a socket head wrench. That's one of the things that Bear dropouts didn't have.
The chainstay sits underneath the adjuster (which is not on the drawing).
Snarky is fine. I am self taught in most things so I share to learn. Although this is not a fabrication drawing it is just a sketch in rhino