• The real question is what happens when problems arise outside the warranty period.

    Good business practice would suggest swap-outs at the fly away cost, which is likely to be somewhere around 25% of RRP. Manufacturer reputation is enhanced, and they get broken units back which helps with R&D.

  • That's a better option than changing PM brand but still requires a new PM unit.

    With there were some other cranks that would work in place of Rotor. Or maybe I just get myself a bench vice and tighten them up again, then glue them in place or something.

    I have some DA9000 165mm cranks I could get converted into PM (if they still do that thing) but ££ I think.

  • I could also use the Hollowgram cranks off the Shiv but I hate ruining a perfectly good bike for another.

  • I had drop out issues with my P2M type S 2 years ago, posted it back and they returned in inside 2 weeks sorted. No issues since.
    Cost me postage to them, but that's all.

    All products have issues. Except my SRM, that's never flinched.

  • My SRM was a pile of shite and I was happy to be rid of it.

  • Exactly. Everyone has a story about something failing.

    Just by a quarq if it meets your needs.

  • I had a riken for 3 years without issues
    Just bought a Dzero as its proven reliability and easy to swap between bikes

  • moneygun.gif

    :)

  • I'm totally unfamiliar with Quarq models.

    I'm more tempted to buy a bench vice and use some stronger loctite or just super glue the P2M to the spider. #tightarse

  • They come in a range of heavy, not so heavy and lightweight

  • Weight is irrelevant for me.

    I might have another go at tightening my cranks. Pain in the butt having to take cranks off to tighten spider.
    https://www.power2max.com/en/product/type-s-road-rotor-3d-power-meter/
    "We recommend using Loctite 243 or a different middle strong threadlocker"

  • Sure this has been asked before but given they're almost exactly the same price (and the same product) how do I choose between 4iiii and Stages?

  • 4iii is rated at higher accuracy.

  • I've ended up using both. Go 4iiii.

  • Thanks for confirming my suspicions, both. 4iiii it is.

  • I'm seriously considering buying some Vector 3 pedals. Is there any reason I shouldn't and does anyone know of them being in stock anywhere?

  • buy mine, they are too good for me, power isnt for me

  • Seriously? PM me if you are. Nice to meet you on Sunday as well.

  • I’ve got a pair on order, they seem to tick the relevant boxes.

  • Apart from being Look Keo type pedals, which is no good for me. At least the Vector 2s can be transplanted into Ultegra pedal bodies.

  • If racing, my main issue is just the fact it is pedal based, as it's one of the first things to hit the deck if you slide out. Other than that mine have been great.

  • Only TTs and I don’t plan on crashing if I can help it at all!

  • If you can live with the pods - which are a tiny bit fiddly to install but which in use I've never found to be a problem - then CRC currently have dual-sided Vector 2s for £540. Combine that with a British Cycling 10% code, and that's a very respectable price for some decent power meter pedals.

  • In that case buy them from @amey and enjoy those big wide RAB's

  • Dare I ask for views and opinions on a single sided Stages G3 purchase (Campag)?

    I have 2 * P2M units on other bikes (Type S for Campag and a track one on a Rotor crankset). Am just getting a bit bored swapping cranksets between two (geared, Campag 11) bikes.

    I'm sure I'm in the vast majority of users with averagely balanced L-R so really don't need the extra metrics and stuff.

    Are the G3 Stages with the latest firmware OK? Any experiences?

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About

Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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