-
• #602
They sell a rattlecan kit with a black base and 2k clear for £40:
https://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-kits-custom-aerosol-can-kits/products/kustom-canz-chromacoat-kit?variant=28207854343Edit: they also do one closer to what @PhilDAS originally posted although it doesn't look as nice:
https://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-kits-custom-aerosol-can-kits/products/kustom-canz-spectrum-fx-kit -
• #603
Amazing.
I've never even looked at the aerosol section of the site!!!I'd be very keen to see the results that come from that.
Good luck, and share pictures! -
• #604
I really want to give it a go but at 40 quid including post, its a bit too steep when montana cans are a fiver each
-
• #606
Wasn’t that a flip paint rather than the prism rainbow colour?
-
• #607
Want this basically
1 Attachment
-
• #608
You might be right.
-
• #609
Anyone got any recommendations of rattle can clear coat? Something hard wearing.
-
• #610
It was chameleon/flip. Similar concept, I'd imagine
-
• #611
Been wondering the same thing. I've got a frame that has this matte like look that I might want to clearcoat to get some shine to it, but haven't been sure what could work. But I think @privatepatterson said something about using the same brand as the paint, something to do with chemical composition etc.
Also, repainting my fixie with spray.bike stuff but they seem to make a clear coat...
-
• #612
Yeah man... best practice is to use the same brand as the basecoat for that exact reason.
Each new layer of product isn't supposed to sit on top of the previous; the intention is instead that they chemically fuse to one another.If your bike is already painted and you want to clearcoat to protect what's underneath it, just key it up with Scotchbrite and clearcoat it with an automotive clear from Halfords.
-
• #613
For yours... you could potentially polish up the current matte clearcoat rather than going again.
The shininess of a paint finish is simply down to the sheen of the clearcoat (unless you're using direct gloss products).
-
• #614
Yeah so I got one of these frames, it's hard to see in the picture but it's got quite a dry matte to it, I love the frame/break-away aspect etc it's just the paint job that bothers me a bit...not sure what is best to do. Maybe I just need to convince myself to like it :)
Hard to see in pics but you get an idea...
4 Attachments
-
• #615
Polishing is a DIY-able project if you fancied it.
Assuming there is actually enough clearcoat on there.something like this would do it...
2000 grit paper wet
3000 grit paper/pad wet
coarse cutting compound and coarse pad
fine compound and finer pad
polish and a mopBy hand will take you until 2021 but you can get a small adapter for a drill and a DIY kit from car enthusiast sites.
-
• #616
Cool! what kind of adaptor do you recommend?
-
• #617
Summat like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-3-Drill-Adapter-with-Polisher-Pad-Plate-for-Car-Furniture-Polishing-/182393647495Spend a bit of time perusing eBay and see if you can find a kit.
-
• #618
thx!
And do I need to worry about ripping out decals or destroying them? -
• #619
Totally.
Same concept for sure.So very crudely...
solid paints are straight pigments - they reflect light uniformly all over.
metallics are simply solids with powdered metal in various sizes etc - they reflect light dynamically based on the substrate contours.
pearls and colour changing flips etc are usually made with prismatic ceramic pearls and crystals. these reflect light dynamically and they also refract light dynamically from their internal surfaces. these dynamic changes are often so extreme that they can give the effect of colour changing paint but really what you're seeing is light travelling at different speeds.
One or two colour changes so for example green to purple is in the most part cheaper than a product that changes hue four or five times.
These effects are really difficult to photograph casually but here's a selection of premium samples...
2 Attachments
-
• #620
Yes.
Definitely worry.Are your decals applied with a physical sticker/transfer type situation or are they paint?
If it's paint, watch a couple of YT vids and polish away.
If it's a sticker of any kind, be careful... you can burn through quite easily. -
• #621
I noticed this on the Giro footage from Etna the other day and mentally registered "that's a fucking cool paintjob for a pro bike". Didn't realise it was the work of someone 'on here'. Well done @hoops !
-
• #622
Thanks for sharing: informative as ever!
-
• #623
Haha. Many thanks!
-
• #624
Since a while I thought to give my bike a new paint, but on the other hand I bought the frame for the paint it has... but got bored a little bit with it. Basically these colors, a gradient from yellow / orange / purple to dark blue, but a really deep blue, like the sky on the top when the sun went down while ago, and the logo letters in yellow or orange or even better an orange to magenta gradient:
Now I have an aluminium frame, with a really nice blue color and vintage style, but stickers and a typo ('HAND MADE IN ITALY'). Damn, I hate that type – or isn't it a typo and OK? Like UK and US English differences? Argh.
As I saw it isn't that easy to find some frame painters here, so should I go the DIY route, let it sandblast, and buy a mediocre airbrush gun, a compressor, etc. and paint it for myself? I only used rattle cans in the past for ah um ... bicycle frames. Or find a painter to send it to? Or I leave that idea as it is.
-
• #625
Any recommendation for a person close to London doing good quality touch up of deep scratch and chip?
Not quite what I was after.
Less TVR, more Sagan's Tarmac
Prism paint rather than colour flip