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In what direction did you do this? or in other words, were you trying to gain more lever throw or less?
I hate my spyres. I've got new Tiagra levers and Jagwire compressionless housing.
It feels like when braking from the drops, I just can't stop (maybe my small hands). I can engage the levers and they quickly bite, but they don't quite bite enough. So I guess that means short lever throw, quick engagement, but no bite/power?
Maybe I just miss the modulated feel of rim brakes?
What do people think of the TRP HY/RD setups?
r_mash-
I've just changed the other halves bike from really poor stock (Promax Render) to Juin Tech R1 and I'm very impressed. Took it out to bed them in and they are good, not up with my Rival hrd but would keep me happy.
Realise you probably want a comparison with spyres though.
Also did you follow a process to bed them in? Could explain the lack of bite but I've never used them.
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The problem with such brakes as the TRP Spyres is that while it is actually easy to step up, it is also easy to not do it correctly.
It's within the realm of possibility to get it set up nicely, in some batches of the Spyres, the pads doesn't sit straight in the calipers (not uncommon with mechanical disc, BB7 suffer the same issues as well as Shimano), sometime the frame's mount isn't faced 100% to allow the pads to hit the rotor 100% straight, also you have to make sure the arm on the calipers return almost fully and the pads as close as possible to the rotor (again the same on all mechanical brakes).
TRP (and Shimano) brakes come with resin pads to enable better modulation and reduced rotor wear, however a sintered pads (metal) offer a better bite, with the increase wear in rotor and less modulation, basically more grabby.
I'm afraid I have yet to tried a sintered pads on those Shimano/TRP/etc. set up, but can't imaging why it wouldn't work better when a sintered pads on road hydraulic offer a great bite.
Personally given how cheap rotor can be, I'd be happy to compromise the expense of rotor wear for more bites.
Someone mentioned Uberbike for pads, and think have been vouched for;
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I’ve would the levers in using the screw under the hood so they are closer to the bars - this has taken out the initial pull on the lever that didn’t do anything, and combined with tensioning the calliper barrel adjuster and the pad in adjustments has got something that works okay, but I’ll reserve full judgement until the pads have bedded in
spinnnout
edscoble
roadwarrior
I’ve ended up adjusting the lever reach screw in the 105 shifters which has improved the bite point significantly- pads still need bedding in but feels a lot better now.