Dynamo hubs

Cheers, think I ended up going 32h and now that whole wheel is surplus to requirements.

Your silly carbon one or another?

Could you find any dynamo?
I already have one in silver but i could ask to the brand if they have something else.
I sold 3 of them (for disc brakes), and some many for rim brakes... as I'm riding one SV-9 24h and feel good and light.

You can try to get the new SL-9 24h

Anyway it's not too important the weight on the hub, so PL-8 or PD-8 is also a good option.

The deepest of the deep.

All the time. That's the beauty of them. I just leave my lights on day and night with no thought about charging batteries. Increased visibility, safer and convenient.

Yes, me too for more than 57.000k without switch of the lights! Safety first!
(with the same lights for at least 35.000)

Yes I mailed Bike24, they shipped me one.

.

I was planning on buying a reel of twin core auto marine cable to make up a few dynamo cables. The 0.5mm core stuff will be more than enough.

It’s probably a bit overkill but it’ll certainly last the test of time and it costs buttons! You could probably find something lighter though.

https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/mobile/product/1359/category/281

Son use a very similar spec cable
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dynamos/schmidt-coaxial-cable-10m-roll-black-2-x-05-mm/ at over 3x the price per meter.

Arup dun a good one.
DT Swiss R460 DB 28H (28H because that's what I already had for the rear hub - would have gone 32 ideally)
Shutter Precision PL8X 15mm TA (15mm cos that's what the forks are - noting comments online re smaller bearings not necessarily being up to the task)
Sapim Strong spokes
Hope RS4 142x12mm TA
11/32 5800 cassette
Ice Tech RT99 rotors

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Would like to build almost exactly this set before winter. Can I ask the cost?

Of course,
Will leave out rotors and cassette.
Cost for spokes and build was £106.00.
SP hub was £122.00. RS4 hub was £160.00. Rims were £34.99 each so about £457.98 as built (not including rotors or cassette). Sourced the bits myself.

Thanks man.
Hoping my build will be a bit less, I have rims already and may assemble myself to bring build cost down

I had most of the bits already too. The RS4 has about 6000km of all weather riding on it already and the bearings are perfectly fine. Only purchased one new rim as reused rear. Save yourself £60 on the build cost doing it yourself. You certainly wouldn't want me to try building wheels. I needed these to be absolutely perfect.

Anyone have experience with the drum brake Sturmey Archer XL-FDD? One for sale near me. Is it for tandems or what?

Is it for tandems

Nah, it's for utility bikes. If you used it on a tandem as a drag brake you'd melt things left right and centre!

AFAIK it's the only drum dynohub available these days; once bedded in it's usefully powerful, and is obviously unaffected by the weather. They're not cheap (£90 or so?) and the electrics are not that efficient - from discussion over on the CTC forums I gather they produce almost as much drag lights-off as lights-on. Of course for a utility bike this doesn't matter.

@hamrack @Thrustvector hmm okay, so not a bad option for a 26" functional thing. Will see how cheap they're willing to go on it and if it's a big discount I might go for it. Would probably have to rebuild it onto a new rim. But maybe ride the mullet setup (700c front/26" rear) for a while :)

Edit: PS, cheers for the advice!

I bought it (in a wheel) for £20 which seemed too cheap to pass up. Time to build it up and figure out how the bloody hell the connectors and lights work

Think I have done something wrong but not entirely sure, probably definitely my fault for attempting to wire everything after midnight. Trying to figure out if human error or machine error as it is all very weird.

I had front light wired directly to my SON hub, chugging along nicely last weekend. This evening i then added spade connectors to an Igaro D1 cable and attached them to some piggyback spade connectors on the light's cable and plugged into the hub. When the Igaro cable leads to no where, not even attached to the unit itself, the lights work as expected. Once the Igaro cable is screwed into the unit the lights stop working completely and no power is coming out of the Igaro. I detach the igaro cable and the lights spring back into life.

is that a dead Igaro?

(Longer version of the story has my wiring working for testing but near the end of my ride when it was getting dark I removed the igaro spade connectors so I could get the light working again.)

Have you double checked your wiring / soldering at all ends? Sounds like something in the Igaro loop is shorting it out, that's really easy if you're using coaxial wire anyway.

No coaxial wire being used. Since the short is only happening when the igaro is attached further up the wire I'm assuming the hub connections are sound.

An uninteresting photo but shows the light working whilst the igaro is not connected but with the igaro wire attached to the piggy back spade connectors.

I even attempted to swap which wires the igaro cable attached to but had the same result. Since the output is AC this shouldn't affect it anyway right?

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I think so, but you're really asking the wrong person! Do you have warranty on the Igaro?

I do and got in touch with them today, a replacement should be on its way soon. Saves me the job of rewiring the power lead.

They think that the over-voltage circuit has failed due to a supplier supplying some faulty parts.

New Shimano 12 x 100mm thru-axle hub:
https://www.rosebikes.com/shimano-deore-xt-dh-ur705-3d-disc-hub-dynamo-12-x-100-mmdeore-xt-dh-ur705-3d-disc-hub-dynamo-12-x-100-mm-2669252?product_shape=black&article_size=32+hole

@youramericanlover