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  • We got ours from Celia Hammond.

    He was more the size of a mug-cosy at the time though; you have to wait for them to grow into a full tea cosy. Time: approx 2 years.

  • Doh! Genuinely thought your pic was a tea cosy too. There is something quite strange about him...

  • shots fired

  • He's definitely a special sausage....


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  • More like "Who the fuck puts knifes on the magnet strip pointing up ?!?"

    ftfy

  • Someone is being judged -

    Reported should be in the cat thread.

    Nice hood.

  • Now my comments:
    I really like your kitchen. The open style, have added curtains to the fronts as some people don't want to see stuff, which I don't understand. The look and see what I want, to me, is brilliant.

    Would this work with cats?

    The adjustable height shelves, how strong are the attachments? This is a fear I have having has a shitty cheap cupboard collapse.

  • Oh I do like that.

    Part on me likes the clean idea of an industrial kitchen, the moving the units cleaning and putting back. Those are attached to the wall aren't they.

  • Ha ha, he's got you as a servant.

  • In a non kitchen conversation in a flat, how about this. Looking to re place the kitchen as non sealed worktops and shit doors and NO STRAIGHT EDGES...so decided to run a new water pipe down to the main. Pipe to be a 25mm blue plastic one, up from the 15mm copper. Thinking of replacing all the water pipes so that the pipes and stop taps are all one size. At the mo the pipes go 15mm, 20mm and what ever else the stop taps are. Not that worried about the loos but concerned with hot water to the bath/shower with anything else on.

    I think this is a good time to the pipes as I am redoing the flat. That is a good idea? Looking to run replacement pipes for the central heating too as they are currently buried in the floor. The pipes have leaked once so may leak again so would it no be easier to have the pipes ready to go no need to hack the floor?

    Thanks for listening.

  • I would imagine it depends on your cat. Ours would have loved it, I'm sure, though tbh he was probably too big to fit in it.

    The attachments on those are 5 mm dia. pins, into solid birch, reasonable. Tubular stainless steel shelves. So pretty strong, though I wouldn't sit on them. No groaning under the weight of some cast iron. Unfortunately they're discontinued, which is a bit shit, they're really rather nice and adaptable units

  • No, they’re free-standing, just the backsplash is attached. Little chance of them drifting...
    Also, I purposely left enough of a gap below the lowest shelf to (with some difficulty) slip a broom or vacuum under.
    Also, cleaning behind kitchen units is next level White Tornado.

  • Increasing the size of water pipe from mains to the boiler and/or hot water tank is a good idea. It is also good to increase the size of the first branch(es) of the hot water towards shower or bath. Increasing other pipes may take some of the flow from the shower/bath. On all hot water runs you need to consider how much water sits in the pipe. 25mm plastic holds about 2.25 times as much as 15mm copper so it takes longer for hot water to reach your tap and more heat is wasted sitting in the pipework once the tap is turned off.

  • Sorry, wasn't clear. Increasing the size of the water pipe to the main stop cock in the flat from the main. Pipe work in flat to be altered so that the diameter is all the same. Currently the pipes seem to be a mixture of 15mm and 22mm with either compression joints or badly soldered joints on the pipe to the kitchen tap main tap and the boiler.

  • I can't see the point of changing all the pipe sizes unless there is a problem with flow, such as to the shower or bath. Oversizing all the other pipes and fittings only increases the opportunity to waste water and waste heat.
    I have just fitted free low flow aerators to the basin taps, they may save a few pence off the water bill https://watersavingdevices.thameswater.co.uk/

  • How can I either cut these screws slightly recessed from the surface, or screw them out slightly, but without access the the screw heads? Just need them in a bit so I can filler over the hole without them poking out


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  • Screw extractor bits

    If they're in an external wall, and if you have a solid / cross bonded wall (which I'm guessing, since you have lime plaster), they'll get damp and rust, and knacker whatever finish you have over them.

  • Never heard of those bits before, will investigate.

    No these are in some MDF built in wardrobes the previous owner built into some alcoves. He must have assembled them outside the alcove and then moved them in. I'm keeping the frame he built but redoing the insides and doors.

  • Can you punch the screws back in?

  • Dremel with a small ball shaped grinding bit?

  • Can you punch the screws back in?

    Managed that with a couple, but some are butted up against a wall directly behind, so need to be cut inside.

    Dremel with a small ball shaped grinding bit?

    Finally a reason to use this dremel I got last year. Will give this a try

  • Prior incantanto spell.

  • Sometimes I get a similar problem if the head of a screw breaks. If you take some stainless tube large enough to surround the thread (an old golf club shaft for example) and file some teeth into the end you can cut the screw threads right out by using the tube in a drill.

    In your case you would need the tube to be large enough to get the screw head through the hole. There are plug cutters which would also do the job but generally leave a larger hole. A multi tool like fein can cut through the tip of the screw but it takes it's toll on the blade and leaves you with the problem TW mentioned that it will rust.

  • Looking to add a pump to the shower as flow isn't that great. Also fluid dynamics ;) looking to add filters to the drinking water and that will restrict the flow.

  • If you have decent pressure but poor flow then just increasing pipe size from mains to hot water to shower may solve the problem.

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Home DIY

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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