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@gfk_velo
The levers look from the image as if they are UltraShift.
It's hard to be sure from the pic, but it looks as if the shifters (if both are the same) have been over-rotated, that is to say, have been forced beyond the lowest gear (biggest sprocket) position in the case of the RH, and the bigger chainring, in the case of the LH.
There is a stop inside the lever body that should prevent that but if you are forceful enough, it can be broken off.
Short-term fix is to carefully "yank" on the exposed portion of the cable below the frame stops (but be uber-careful as I have seen stops rip off the frame, depending on what it is / frame material / how the stops are held on) Campag lever mechanisms use an un-gated ratchet & can be forced "backwards" and this will drag the mechanism back into a position where the drive pawl can engage the drive ring.
Then, reset the gears up and do it so that you don't need to over-rotate the inner to get the big ring and / or the biggest sprocket. Cable tension and correct FD set-up is important on Campag - only the 1st 3 clicks on the LH lever should be used in adouble system & if these are UltraShift, they were never designed to work with a triple system ...
The levers will always be prone to this happening from now on (the stop, once broken, is broken ...) but we can rebuild the internals into new lever body shells (we have the spares to do it) or we can install a metal stop in your existing lever bodies. Neither process is cheap but it's worth doing as 10s UltraShifts are no longer being made, and 10s PowerShift will have reduced life working with a rear mech specced to work with UltraShift (return spring tensions are around 25% higher on UltraShift Rds than on PowerShift).
General comment - don't spray lube willy-nilly into Campag shifters. They neither need it, nor will it fix any of the common issues with them and can, in some cases, damage parts of the internal irreparably.