-
Nice! Yeah, I would like much beefier frame material and to have been able to secure the corners with coach screws. Double skin would also be nice, not necessarily for anything thermal as I have no problem with damp or condensation from rapid temp change, probably due to my other damp prevention and the decently felted roof.
The shed shackle works great, but I have heard a first hand story of one being destroyed using the tools already in a shed. But theirs was much further from the house and secluded. I might still cut a hatch in the floor and fit a ground anchor now that the concrete has had a couple of years to fully cure.
The windows could be smashed, but again that would be noticed and anything they can fit through the window would be cheaper/less hassle to replace along with the glass than a fucked wall. Plus I like the light.
You are reading a single comment by @stevo_com and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
stevo_com
I'll have 4x4 skids as there is already a paved area - I'll have a dpc strip over them.
The frames are all tanalised 2x4, with 11mm OSB skin.
Cladding on the front and sides is 21mm shiplapped thermowood, and the rear will either be 18mm marine ply, or reclaimed feather edged fence strips (it's 100mm from a fence, son doesn't need to look pretty).
The frames and skin will be nailed, so I'm not too worried about hiding screw heads.
For security, I'll have no windows, coach bolts through the hinge (which is hidden behind the cladding anyway), a bar lock across the front, and inside a y-anchor in concrete under the shed. The frames will have builders' bands around them too.
As you say, someone can still get in, but they'll take an age.l, and they'll need a wrecking bar and curring tools.
And when they do get in, they will be face to face with a camera...