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• #3552
It's not really essential anywhere but it's so nice!
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• #3553
What’s the general opinion of the Brother Kepler disc? I’m thinking of getting one for on road/little bit of off road.
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• #3554
Electronic and wireless, yes.
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• #3555
Just putting this out there as a idea. debatable how good it will be.....
Would it be possible to offer up a short travel suspension fork to something like a Genesis Vagabond frame, having seen the Cannondale setup from the London show that was built by one of the head office guys running a lefty fork on a CX frame I would like to get something built up for the jungle trails in the Philippines that are near to my house there..
I see Curve are are also messing around with this concept if Rhinos Insta is anything to go by, I know there are a few off the peg options, well maybe one I can think of but I have a fair bit of kit lying around including a Ultegra 6800 group and a 11-40 11 speed cassette and wheels, thinking about it I would literally just need a Frame and 80-100mm fork..
Rake could be a issue?, and I guess the Vaga runs a 1 1/8th headset so I guess a older fork is needed and a quick rebuild which is no issues..
What you say??...
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• #3556
Seems problematic. If you don't own the frame yet and you're set on drops and suspension Salsa Fargo could work for you? Or Singular Swift.
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• #3557
the Vaga runs a 1 1/8th headset
Bit of a show stopper when it comes to modern sus forks. The Fox AX fork would be ideal but guess what...tapered only, by the looks of things.
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• #3558
I am so, so digging this.
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• #3559
Huge fan of mine. I went for the as standard steel forks instead of the carbon ones, as i've gone for a front rack for commuting.
I've no idea about the weight of the thing, but it's definitely my most comfortable bike.
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• #3560
The same team is responsible for both Rondo range and NS Rag+ bikes.
I'm loving mine. The only thing I dislike is the handlebar shape, but I'm swapping for flat top and shallow drop soon.
1 Attachment
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• #3561
Nice! Cheers for the reply. Hopefully the new full builds are out soon.
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• #3562
I have one. I love it!
I've used it for 100+ mile road rides, fun thrashing on the South Downs, long distance off road, touring in Scotland and I've run it with 700c and 650b. It is very versatile. -
• #3563
A friend has the disc one & the another has the cantilever one. Both really like them. I look at their geo enviously from my Croix de Fer.
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• #3564
Are the plastic tubes pinnacle installed in the internal cable routing area of my arkose frame for guiding the cables or guiding and protecting the exposed cable in the internal routing area?
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• #3565
probably both, and also to prevent the cable rattling inside the frame
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• #3566
Former, I run mine naked, TBH, it's not hard to route the housing/cable as there's a big opening underneath.
I recommend routing it in a California Cross for a tidy cable routing (plus that how those bike were build), it also help with shifting performance.
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• #3567
Thanks. One last question. I take it the FD pulls cable from the bottom b/c of the cable routing but do you know what if the FD swings from the top or the bottom? Thanks
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• #3568
Another internal cabling query:
On my Chinese carbon CX frame should the rear cable outer stop at the ferrules or would it be best to run a continuous outer from lever to calliper? The outer will pass through the hole but if I fit an aluminium ferrule that stops at the frame stop.
I am slightly concerned about the damage my vice like grip would do to the frame.
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• #3569
If I understand your question, bottom.
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• #3570
would it be best to run a continuous outer from lever to calliper?
Always, especially compressionless.
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• #3571
Knew you would come through ed, thanks for confirming this
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• #3572
Nah, scoble is wrong, you'll have more friction on the cable for the longer it goes through the outer housing. Using the cable stops will reduce the amount of cable that's rubbing on the outer and make the brake pull smoother.
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• #3573
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• #3574
Compressionless.
Even gears work well when it run through a full outer.
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• #3575
Compressionless isn’t frictionless. It just doesn’t squash under tension
Is electronic shifting really essential on a 1x adventure?