Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

1. You probably don't need the fins.
   
2. Shimano G02A unfinned resin pads are £8 at Merlin, £7.50 at CRC.
   
3. CRC has Clarks unfinned pads resin@£4, sintered@£6
   
4. The resin pads last plenty long enough considering they're cheaper.
   
5. Changing pads more often means contamination is less of an issue.
   

Reporting back on this.

Front brake we managed to successfully burb and squeeze out the air through the inverted method. Then add some more fluid in via this method.

For the rear I managed to get out the stripped bleedport on the shifter and do a standard bleed. Injecting oilat the caliper to promote the bubbles to migrate up.

G01S, I run this on my daily commuter/polo bike and yeah, they're brilliant:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-G01S-bicycle-brakes-brake/dp/B0086CH9IK/ref=cts_sp_1_vtp

Cheers for this , I agree the fins are a bit pointless , do you know if the material in the G02a is the same as the J02a which is the resin equivalent ?

I doubt Shimano would bother developing another resin formula unless it replaced the previous formula. Those two pads are from the same era, so unlikely to be different resins.

The number in the middle is pad material, there was some sort of change between 01 & 02 which is old and new resin and 03 & 04 which is old and new sintered, but I've got no idea what that is.

A pretty picture.

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Is it possible for Hy/rd to get internally blocked? I'm trying to bleed a pair but don't seem to be able to force up any fluid into the reservoir. I opened this up to check what was going on and sure enough nothing's coming through. Things seem to be working fine in the lower sections (syringe pressure causes piston movement as does pressing on the arm, just nothing getting to/from the reservoir.

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If the brake is ‘on’ the reservoir will be sealed off. But you know that anyway right?

Yeah I assumed so. I managed to get the smallest suggestion of through flow. It's possible the bleed kit isn't up to the job as it's leaking out bleed nipple, but I'm surprised if it requires that much pressure for a normal bleed and it's one of those Epic kits which seem well made.

Sounds a bit like somethings stuck. Can you force some water through it or something?

Or swap it for some juintech?

Ugh ignore me. I was trying to force the fluid from the caliper to reservoir. Figure there must be a valve in there, which totally make sense now I think about it.

SUre? That valve should only close when the brake is ‘on’.

.

So there's obviously no flow at all when the brake is on, but it appears that the flow is only one way when it's not. No where near the same pressure applied and it flowed through nicely.

So if you wanted to reset the pistons when adding new pads?

Good point no idea. I've another problem in that the pistons don't seem to return far enough to lock the arm off. Might just sack these of and go hydraulic. How much is a Rival 1 set?

Edit, your Juin Tech idea is sounding pretty attractive. I've sent TRP an email as a last resort before giving up.

So, my MTB brakes are poor, lever touches the bar and applies very little stopping force (front brake isuch worse than the rear)
Guessing they need a bleed.
How hard is it first time? (Oo-er)
I've ordered a bleed kit from an online bleed kit seller.

Do I need to remove brakes/ wheels/ forks/ etc before attempting?

For those of you worried about disc related foot injuries, this april fizik has you covered https://www.fizik.com/r1disc/ .

1. Depends on the brand. Shimano easier than Sram
   
2. Both still easy if you can follow a youtube tutorial and have the kit
   
3. No need to remove anything except the wheel and probably pads
   
4. Don't crack the pistons
   
   
   

\5. Cut your loses and get brakes that aren’t broken

There are a couple of important points to mention on the subject of tandem braking, which I have been learning recently having nearly finished my tandem.

1. If your tandem has disc brake mounts them go hydraulic if you can! Apart from the fact that their performance is better in various ways, the most important thing is that they are more "powerful". By that I mean that the ratio of lever-squeezing pressure to braking force is relatively low. That brings me to point number two...
   
2. If you must keep it mechanical, and you're thinking about which is more powerful, then the most important thing to consider is the combination of lever and calliper. Both components will be designed to operate with a specific 'mechanical advantage'. I can tell you for a fact that Spyre callipers do not work well with 105 levers, as this was a common problem with mid-level road bikes at my shop. My advice is to a) walk around a bike shop and squeeze some levers and b) read some reviews.
   
3. As has already been mentioned, a drum brake would be preferable. On the rear that is, although this would necessitate a specific hub. The reason that drum brakes were popular with tandem teams in the pre-disc brake era was that they dissipate heat very well. Consider this marvellous article: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem-brakes.html
   
   

Ultimately, there's two of you so you need more stopping force to match the extra weight. I reckon hyro-disc is the righteous path.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the summary. I’ve owned tandems with Arai drum brakes, they’re nice. However, I don’t have the option of fitting a drag brake.

Hydraulics are out of the question, for different reasons (number one is that I need to split the cable when uncoupling the frame; number two is that I can’t service it myself in a poorly-supplied area). I also believe I’ll have plenty of power with the Klampers. If that proves true, going hydraulic would add nothing but complication.

In regards to feel, I spoke directly to the guys at Paul (lovely people), and they helped me choosing the setup I’m going with: short pull calipers with canti levers (not the Love ones). Added to Hope’s ventilated, floating 203mm rotors, I shall be well served.

Just setting some flat mount spyres up - even with no cable installed and the pads wound all the way out it the clearance between the pads seems quite tight - is this normal ? (Pads are new)

Edit: bit of googling suggests the pad adjustment screws need a bit of force when they are new