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There are a couple of important points to mention on the subject of tandem braking, which I have been learning recently having nearly finished my tandem.
- If your tandem has disc brake mounts them go hydraulic if you can! Apart from the fact that their performance is better in various ways, the most important thing is that they are more "powerful". By that I mean that the ratio of lever-squeezing pressure to braking force is relatively low. That brings me to point number two...
- If you must keep it mechanical, and you're thinking about which is more powerful, then the most important thing to consider is the combination of lever and calliper. Both components will be designed to operate with a specific 'mechanical advantage'. I can tell you for a fact that Spyre callipers do not work well with 105 levers, as this was a common problem with mid-level road bikes at my shop. My advice is to a) walk around a bike shop and squeeze some levers and b) read some reviews.
- As has already been mentioned, a drum brake would be preferable. On the rear that is, although this would necessitate a specific hub. The reason that drum brakes were popular with tandem teams in the pre-disc brake era was that they dissipate heat very well. Consider this marvellous article: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem-brakes.html
Ultimately, there's two of you so you need more stopping force to match the extra weight. I reckon hyro-disc is the righteous path.
Hope that helps.
- If your tandem has disc brake mounts them go hydraulic if you can! Apart from the fact that their performance is better in various ways, the most important thing is that they are more "powerful". By that I mean that the ratio of lever-squeezing pressure to braking force is relatively low. That brings me to point number two...
Go_Steady-
Thanks for the summary. I’ve owned tandems with Arai drum brakes, they’re nice. However, I don’t have the option of fitting a drag brake.
Hydraulics are out of the question, for different reasons (number one is that I need to split the cable when uncoupling the frame; number two is that I can’t service it myself in a poorly-supplied area). I also believe I’ll have plenty of power with the Klampers. If that proves true, going hydraulic would add nothing but complication.
In regards to feel, I spoke directly to the guys at Paul (lovely people), and they helped me choosing the setup I’m going with: short pull calipers with canti levers (not the Love ones). Added to Hope’s ventilated, floating 203mm rotors, I shall be well served.
ough
Advice on speccing mechanical brakes for my tandem, please. Contenders are BB7 Mountain and Spykes.
I don't know how braking power compares between the two. From what I read around, it's compatible. The Spykes seem to be a better option (more recent, more expensive, dual pivot), but the adjustment screw issue makes it tough to trust.
Am I worrying for nothing? Alternatively, could I install an inline barrel on the cable itself, and use that to adjust pad travel? I could then loctite the shit out of the adjustment screw and never touch it again.