What camera do I buy? / general gear talk

Any recommendations for a reliable/reputable high capacity power pack? I'd want 2 (or more) x USB Type A, ideally 1 x USB C (but would accept 3 x Type A instead) and if poss a full size plug socket so I can charge laptops and maybe even run things from it (though the latter might be a step too far).

Was looking at this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-RAVPower-27000mAh-Universal-Smartphone/dp/B01MDKHWNR/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Happy to spend whatever it takes but would like something relatively portable. (Have been asking in the AQA thread about much bigger devices for powering more things but here I'm looking for something I could slip in a camera bag).

I'd like something that could run 2 x Sennhesier AVX units and either 1 x A7S2/A6500/A6300 plus a monitor (Small HD Focus) and XLR adapter (Sony K1M). Currently the AVX units are being powered by their own batteries but they only last 3 hours and are proprietary. I can buy more but I'd prefer continuous recording rather than worrying about when they're going to run out. The camera/monitor and XLR port are powered from a single Sony NP-F970. It's fine and lasts a couple of hours and I have a few batteries but again, if there was something portable I could plug into that would last 6-8 hours I'd be laughing.

Am also interested to know how long (if at all) I'd be able to run a 25w device for using the above power pack. It's this:

https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/uk/products/blackmagicwebpresenter/techspecs

You're welcome!

Well as I said I would try to put my hands on different bodies in a store.

Personally I never got along with live mode shooting but understand for others it's just great.

A few years ago I would have definitely opted for the more sealed / rugged body,
now I'm sick of schlepping tons of gear and also have realized I almost never shoot in the rain,
and I carry my stuff in padded bags and take a little care so it doesn't need to be bombproof either.
I need the camera's grip to fit my hand well as I tend to walk around for hours with the camera in my hand without straps etc.

If I were you I'd continue using the old zoom (used to shoot a lot with that 17-85 as well, it's really quite good, and barrel is easily corrected - newer is always nicer but it will blow the budget).
I'd get the cheap but great EF-s 24mm f/2.8 STM. This will be great for taking pics of your child and for various other things.

Hope this helps.
Enjoy shooting!
: ]

Thanks @Rubbish&Mattresses , much appreciated!

Anyone have the Canon 28-80mm 3.5-5.6 USM lens from the 90s?

I've got the Canon 28-105mm f3.5-4.5 USM from the same era, and it's a really nice lens. A step above in quality from more modern Canon kit lenses. I really like it.

Any recommendations for a good monitor for hobby level post processing sub £250? Anything better than a Dell u2415 for value for money?

Always just done it on a laptop but finally gone back to a desktop and getting confused by the endless monitor options and all reviews and comments always being related to gaming performance.

Not sure whether all the Eizo monitors have the same quality as the higher end ones but the ColorEdge CG247 is great. Smaller second hand ones seem to be around your budget.

Also, maybe cut a little off the monitor budget to get a screen calibration unit.

screen calibration

..is that still a thing?

Does one still need to do this with the modern led / oled panels?

I've had noticeable differences with my monitors (although they are a few years old). Even though I have two identical monitors the colour profiles were quite different to start with.

Oh yea, I wasn't being precise -
sure you'd do it once initially (but for this I wouldn't buy a calibration unit but get one from a friend) - was just thinking that then the modern displays "stay that way" and don't need to be re-calibrated every so often.

Slightly O/T but I've been offered an Mac Mini (top of the range model) and I'm thinking about using it for light duty image editing, web browsing and running a rolling image slide show.

I'm going to pair it with a wall mounted monitor on a swinging bracket.

I'm looking for recommendations for a 24 or 27" 4K monitor that will connect via thunderbolt and comes in white.

comes in white

Think that might be a requirement too far. You could build a frame around it?

You could build a frame around it?

Is that an @amey joke?

Or silver?

or

?

Might be necessary, white and silver seem to be out of fashion

..might also not be too hard to do I figure?

If you're not keen on doing it yourself take it to a place that does cars?

Definitely. Otherwise my options are so limited.

I usually edit my photos on Lightroom CC on either my MacBook Air or iPhone. When I come to print (either Ink Jet or sent to a lab for C-Type prints) the prints are darker than they appear on screen. For ink jet at least setting the 'Brighter' option on the printer helps.

Is there any way to get around this ? For ink jet I'm using the Lightroom Classic print module, with the recommend profile for the paper I'm using. Mostly printing B&W.

^Apple products over-saturate. Not sure there’s a workaround beyond what you’ve already figured out...

When I come to print (either Ink Jet or sent to a lab for C-Type prints) the prints are darker than they appear on screen.
Is there any way to get around this?

Yea, edit the photos so they're a bit brighter.

Do you run your screen on full brightness?
In trade school for photography, we were taught never to run screens/monitors on full brightness and if at all possible only somewhere around 33%-50%.

How big do you print? I've found printing pics small can make then darker.

@MisterMikkel - out of curiosity, why?

Is there any way to get around this ?

Yes.

1) At home - calibrate your screen, printer, and paper, using a calibration tool like an Xrite. Built in profiles mean nothing really.
2) At the lab - look at your picture on their calibrated monitors. Do a test strip (10% of the size of the final print, 10% of the price). Go to the Printspace if your lab finds this weird.

Your monitor is lit up from the back, paper is not. The only "true" measure of how bright your picture is using the eyedropper tool to measure RGB values. Or print test prints.