They all have double-bends to some extent (bend one way, then back on itself), which increases friction, guarantees paint-rub and, most importantly, looks a bastard.
You want to remove them and have the cables curving as gently as possible: the more gradual the bend, the less friction.
C-Eagle is on the money and swapping the brakes over would benefit the routing of both cables: the rear wouldn't run so tight to the frame.
I also run the left shifter to the right frame stop and vice versa: less acute bends and they don't run so tight to the frame. Cross the inners back under the down tube: I've never found they rub excessively, but if you have internal routing it might not be possible.
Layer the cables with the front brake first, followed by the rear, then the front derailleur with the rear last. Apart from the front brake it doesn't really matter which order the others follow, but you might as well impose some sense of order.
Let the released cable hang freely, then gently guide it to the appropriate cable stop: don't pull on the cable, just use one finger to apply the least force necessary. Remember to account for the depth of the stop.
Holding it in place you can now turn the bars to check their range isn't limited. In practice (with the cables routed as above), I've not found this to be a problem: about 30˚left and right is adequate. Also squeeze the calipers to the rim, to check they aren't restricted (check frame-caliper section at the rear).
Trim the outer 2 or 3cm longer than you've measured and check again with the outer actually in the stop and a ferrule fitted if appropriate. Trim 0.5cm and repeat. When you think it needs trimming just once more, stop and leave well enough alone. :)
I know you know this, but do pull the inners past the point you'll cut the outer! ;)
PS With your cable-game on, don't let the side down with your finishing tape: only noobs run it off the end of the bar wrap and onto the actual bars.
PPS If you use self-amalgamating silicone tape instead of electrical, then Tstr might not give you a stern look...
Excellent tips. Thanks! Yeah, the tape is getting redone too. I’m going to take a day off soon to spend entirely on stripping, cleaning and servicing. Will take my time over it all to get it right. What’s decent tape these days? The soft touch stuff doesn’t stand up to sweat very well.
Wow!
They all have double-bends to some extent (bend one way, then back on itself), which increases friction, guarantees paint-rub and, most importantly, looks a bastard.
You want to remove them and have the cables curving as gently as possible: the more gradual the bend, the less friction.
C-Eagle is on the money and swapping the brakes over would benefit the routing of both cables: the rear wouldn't run so tight to the frame.
I also run the left shifter to the right frame stop and vice versa: less acute bends and they don't run so tight to the frame. Cross the inners back under the down tube: I've never found they rub excessively, but if you have internal routing it might not be possible.
Layer the cables with the front brake first, followed by the rear, then the front derailleur with the rear last. Apart from the front brake it doesn't really matter which order the others follow, but you might as well impose some sense of order.
Let the released cable hang freely, then gently guide it to the appropriate cable stop: don't pull on the cable, just use one finger to apply the least force necessary. Remember to account for the depth of the stop.
Holding it in place you can now turn the bars to check their range isn't limited. In practice (with the cables routed as above), I've not found this to be a problem: about 30˚left and right is adequate. Also squeeze the calipers to the rim, to check they aren't restricted (check frame-caliper section at the rear).
Trim the outer 2 or 3cm longer than you've measured and check again with the outer actually in the stop and a ferrule fitted if appropriate. Trim 0.5cm and repeat. When you think it needs trimming just once more, stop and leave well enough alone. :)
I know you know this, but do pull the inners past the point you'll cut the outer! ;)
PS With your cable-game on, don't let the side down with your finishing tape: only noobs run it off the end of the bar wrap and onto the actual bars.
PPS If you use self-amalgamating silicone tape instead of electrical, then Tstr might not give you a stern look...