Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

20/24 CX rays. How often do you notice a wheel not being stiff enough?

Still helpful. If CX sprints are significantly cheaper I'll go for them on the rear. Thanks!

Fair enough! Don't think I've ever noticed a wheel not being stiff enough, except for when using shit/slightly loose skewers

20/24 cx rays it is

I found this article interesting as well, goes into quite a lot of detail:

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Debunking_Wheel_Stiffness_3449.html

It says that deeper rims deflect more at the calipers and less at the road, so with only a 22mm deep rim you might be alright actually. See this image:

It was ages ago and has been rebuilt since... Oh well, the verdict seems to be to bin the wheel then.

Just wish I’d checked before splurging on rebuild... Teach me not to get overexcited at the prospect of carbon rims and ignore the inspection.

HED Belgium + in 32h clincher still for sale anywhere, or is Pacenti Forza (w/offset rear) now a better option?

Intended use light off road. 35-45mm rubber. Other rim brake suitable suggestions welcome.

Other rim brake suitable suggestions welcome.

Open Pro UST?

How much difference is the -1.5mm internal vs Forza going to make? Or does it not matter with larger size tyre?

Also, brain can't work out if they look like hot sex or are ugly as sin.

How much difference is the -1.5mm internal vs Forza going to make? Or does it not matter with larger size tyre?

Depends what tyres you use and how you like them to feel. Wider would be better.

brain can't work out if they look like hot sex or are ugly as sin.

Think of them as a shallow 454NSW for poor people :)

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It's those bulges in the brake track ><

Think will go Forza - The hub is a White Industries H3 so the asym rear should help with brace angle as I think the flange spacing is on narrow side. Plus the width should play nice with G-one 30c if I ever want to switch it to 'more roadie' mode.

Hey guys.

Any if you wheel building people need an engineering pair of helping hands.

Pretty keen to learn a little about wheel building and happy to offer my uneducated service for free.

Also I come with a CNC turning background, so anything that could be machined to assist you could be the barter chip from me.

Cheers

Apologies for the spam, but I'm even more skint than usual: Park Tool TM-1 4 sellz.

Are Bitex hubs still recommended? I’m looking at the RAF12 32h front and RAR12 32h rear. The site states he front is suitable for radial lacing. Presumably also suitable fur 3 cross?

Any wheel builders based in Kent that have capacity to build a 32h 3x wheelset for me this weekend? 😬 I’ve got all the parts! Got to put the bike on the Eurostar on Wednesday...

EDIT:- dropped them off at The Velo Works this morning...

Would someone have built a wheel using a Ryde rim?
https://www.cnc-bike.de/product_info.php?cPath=39_1133&products_id=16087
They are cheap,
under 500g,
I would use them with 2" tyres on a loaded bike.

Front wheel done. No tools other than a spoke wrench. Only took me like 6 hours.

Tip: for checking roundness get the wheel into the fork and push a coffee table against the rim until it's touching most of the circumference. Loosen the spokes at the points where it doesn't touch.

For checking dish, suspend the rim on two identical mugs and make a pile of coins underneath until it touches. Flip the rim and check distance to coins again.

Apologies if this has come up already but then again I'm not sure how many people are as dumb as me and attempting this nonsense without the proper gear.

(Spoke length was fine BTW even with the 5mm difference in ERD)

I have a wheel stand but for checking centre I do exactly as you did and it’s never been a problem for the amount of wheels that I’ve built (barely more than a dozen).

Ryde rims are great 👍

Ok thanks

So, given that the rim I posted above sounds like it’s toast, any advice on deep track rim options (24h)? From a search of the thread and my initial thinking, it looks like my options are:

• look out for a 58mm rim on eBay (relatively cheap, tho led the quality issue in the first place)
  
• New 60mm carbon rim and maybe reuse the spokes (c£100+), or a 50mm to match the front and new build (spoke cost on top)
  
• Rebuild F&R rims with deep alu rims, H+Son SL-42s? (Pricey)
  
• Rebuild F&R with mid-depth alu rims and sacrifice Aero (DT511DB or XR31T, or even Open Pro UST... Still fairly pricey when factoring in a new front hub)
  
• Flog the front carbon and stick my nice Mack rear hub in a box until I have enough cash not to care about the cost of sorting the problem.
  
  

One final thought on the original rim... It has a metal inner ring on the spoke bed, does that mitigate the compromised integrity from the cutting around the valve hole? Might be more of that wishful thinking.

A bit gutted about it all tbh :(

Aside from selecting a suitable spoke pattern is there anything major I need to know about building disc brake wheels? I've only ever built one wheel set, which was a set of singlespeed road wheels I built about 5 years ago and have stayed surprisingly true and round despite getting plenty of abuse on my commuter. No reason why I shouldn't have a crack at another set right?

Pulling (under brake load) spokes on the in and pushing spokes on the outside

One more slight plea. Already asked in the tool thread, but does anyone have a tension meter I can borrow this week? Happy to pay in beer/coffee/herbal tea or the like.

Work Central and live in Kingston but happy to ride a few miles to collect.

I'm building my first set for a while and while I think i'm in the right ball park tension wise, I'd like to confirm my thinking.

Placing a spoke order on CycleBasket this week.

Probs tomorrow evening.

Hit me up if you want to add spokes to the order.

In LFGSS spirit, I will cover postage costs so you can order just a couple.

Side note, I emailed them to ask whether they could post two wheels' worth of spokes any cheaper (per @user69121 advice in this comment) and I got a fairly brusque response saying that they don't use Royal Mail and that £6 is the cheapest they'll do. For future reference for anyone who wants to try the same thing.

I have to fork out £6 for £12's worth of spokes! Oh well, at least they're cheap