-
Alternatively, could I install an inline barrel on the cable itself, and use that to adjust pad travel?
Don't do this. Unless it's a cyclocross racing tandem used in sandy conditions.
@BareNecessities has MTB experience of the Spykes
Tandem: got a third drum brake on it?
-
The ease of adjustment on BB7s is important because you’ll forever be adjusting the bastard things so they keep working.
I had Spyres, used them happily for over a year and was impressed with their reliability and braking performance and this is the first time I’ve heard of the adjustment screw issue.
-
Am I worrying for nothing? Alternatively, could I install an inline barrel on the cable itself, and use that to adjust pad travel?
Don't do this anyway, spyres and spykes have a barrel adjuster on the brake, but it's just to remove cable slack, they've got individual pad adjusters, like the bb7s, and like the bb7s the actuation arm should return fully and pad wear should be compensated for with the pad adjusters.
-
There are a couple of important points to mention on the subject of tandem braking, which I have been learning recently having nearly finished my tandem.
- If your tandem has disc brake mounts them go hydraulic if you can! Apart from the fact that their performance is better in various ways, the most important thing is that they are more "powerful". By that I mean that the ratio of lever-squeezing pressure to braking force is relatively low. That brings me to point number two...
- If you must keep it mechanical, and you're thinking about which is more powerful, then the most important thing to consider is the combination of lever and calliper. Both components will be designed to operate with a specific 'mechanical advantage'. I can tell you for a fact that Spyre callipers do not work well with 105 levers, as this was a common problem with mid-level road bikes at my shop. My advice is to a) walk around a bike shop and squeeze some levers and b) read some reviews.
- As has already been mentioned, a drum brake would be preferable. On the rear that is, although this would necessitate a specific hub. The reason that drum brakes were popular with tandem teams in the pre-disc brake era was that they dissipate heat very well. Consider this marvellous article: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tandem-brakes.html
Ultimately, there's two of you so you need more stopping force to match the extra weight. I reckon hyro-disc is the righteous path.
Hope that helps.
- If your tandem has disc brake mounts them go hydraulic if you can! Apart from the fact that their performance is better in various ways, the most important thing is that they are more "powerful". By that I mean that the ratio of lever-squeezing pressure to braking force is relatively low. That brings me to point number two...
You are reading a single comment by @ough and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
Howard
andyp
snottyotter
Go_Steady
@ough
Advice on speccing mechanical brakes for my tandem, please. Contenders are BB7 Mountain and Spykes.
I don't know how braking power compares between the two. From what I read around, it's compatible. The Spykes seem to be a better option (more recent, more expensive, dual pivot), but the adjustment screw issue makes it tough to trust.
Am I worrying for nothing? Alternatively, could I install an inline barrel on the cable itself, and use that to adjust pad travel? I could then loctite the shit out of the adjustment screw and never touch it again.