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  • Turn bar to 90 degrees, squeeze brake, put hand on headset between stem and headtube, rock bike back and forth to see if there is movement.

    Also check if there’s enough spacer to preload the headset and lastly. Always use torque wrench.

  • It's the rim brake version. There's definitely play in the headset, it's slight but it still bothers me. I always use a torque wrench when tightening the steerer clamp bolts. I'm just really not sure why after taking the slack out, it comes back again. This used to happen before the steerer was cut, and it is still present after the chop too (I had this done at Mud Dock Cycleworks in Bristol which is a decent bike shop).

    Is it possible to ovalise modern headtubes? I once bought an Argos lo-pro with a threaded headset and it turned out to have an ovailised headtube and actually never have ridden it!

    I have my old CAAD10 forks lying around, I assume I could try the expander from them in CAAD12 forks?

  • Are you following Cannondale's instructions by having the preload cap rest directly on top of the stem, i.e. no spacers above the stem?

    RE ovalisation, it's possible the head tube was out of spec from the factory, in which case warranty claim time.

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