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• #9752
Got it off the bay. Not too sure why the forks weren’t included though
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• #9753
I recently had a CAADX nicked, any chance of a pic of yours? Also what size is it? If it's the same it may help me track down the nicer parts.
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• #9754
No worries mate. I’ll PM you
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• #9755
So, anyone want to ride this and see if it snaps?
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• #9756
a friend of mine has that exact caad12 with a very very similar dent in the top tube. tubing must be super thin
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• #9757
Didn't someone on here have a CAAD written off when a conker fell on the top tube while riding?
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• #9758
That’s done
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• #9759
A falling acorn put a mark/crack in my Supersix HM lacquer. Watch out for those trees.
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• #9760
Loving this bike more and more. I think the fit is pretty much there, but will be going for a proper bike fit in a few months time. The brakes are amazing on the steeper and twistier descents here in Barcelona.
Swapped the bars to some flatter topped Zipp’s and the saddle to a fabric. Next, I’ll probably go for some 28mm Turbo Cotton’s.
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• #9761
great looking bike - amazing paint too.
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• #9762
One-off SuperSix.
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• #9763
What’s the silver bit on the fork? Why have they done that? It doesn’t look right.
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• #9764
silver crown on the fork looks awful
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• #9765
Reminds me of this.
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• #9766
biek of me dream, dreamy biek
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• #9767
by most accounts i've read they are both slower (in rr) and more puncture prone than the schwalbes you have on.
really love the color of this bike. wish they used a compact frame design though!
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• #9768
Hmm yes that could be an issue. I do need 28s as there is a lot of gravel riding around here.
I love the horizontal toptube! Looks nicely proportioned imo.
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• #9769
Try Vitoria Corsa control instead?
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• #9770
I keep getting a knocking in my CAAD12 headset, even after repeatedly tightening it. Think it might be the expander plug not doing it's job. I've used a generous helping of carbon assembly paste but still no luck. Think this could be the likely source of the issue and can anyone recommend a certain expander? Thanks.
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• #9771
Is it definitely the headset? Rim or disc brake version?
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• #9772
Turn bar to 90 degrees, squeeze brake, put hand on headset between stem and headtube, rock bike back and forth to see if there is movement.
Also check if there’s enough spacer to preload the headset and lastly. Always use torque wrench.
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• #9773
It's the rim brake version. There's definitely play in the headset, it's slight but it still bothers me. I always use a torque wrench when tightening the steerer clamp bolts. I'm just really not sure why after taking the slack out, it comes back again. This used to happen before the steerer was cut, and it is still present after the chop too (I had this done at Mud Dock Cycleworks in Bristol which is a decent bike shop).
Is it possible to ovalise modern headtubes? I once bought an Argos lo-pro with a threaded headset and it turned out to have an ovailised headtube and actually never have ridden it!
I have my old CAAD10 forks lying around, I assume I could try the expander from them in CAAD12 forks?
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• #9774
Are you following Cannondale's instructions by having the preload cap rest directly on top of the stem, i.e. no spacers above the stem?
RE ovalisation, it's possible the head tube was out of spec from the factory, in which case warranty claim time.
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• #9775
^ this. Sorted mine previously.
From the US seller: "Cannondale's crash replacement is kind of a joke. They will give you 20% off retail on a trade.
The CAAD12 is $1100. The numbers don't work out.
What I can do for you is send a replacement (frame only) for $550. Then I'll try to offset the difference
by selling the fork etc. "