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Brommers
When I braze I only go off the condition of the flux, but I'm colour blind so colour of steel is not visible to me.
Silver would be my choice for capillary joints, as it flows so much better. Especially if you are new to it, pull the silver through in a way that it will be obvious that it has gone all the way through, so put silver in at the top and make sure it comes through at the bottom.
Fixturing is a personal process, but personally I don't like doing subassemblies on stuff like forks, wishbones etc as you have no idea whether you are in line for the plane you are not working on. Much better to tack everything in place then finish off all the joints in a logical fashion.
Bars, stems, seat mast toppers etc are all interference fit. The number of clamps you are suggesting should be sufficient. If you can try and get T45 tubing as you won't need to heat treat. Yes you can build a stem fixture free, but again that depends on how adept you are at Fixturing.
Racks should really be stainless, simply because if they aren't they would have to be painted, and the paint can wear off in use. I use 10mm tubing for racks, but make them rarely.
Stress testing is often a bit of a red herring, or at least it is in relation to how people on forums doing it. Hanging off a joint you have made and seeing where it fails doesn't really replicate how a bicycle frame would normally fail, it's to do with duty cycles. It will show you whether you have totally fucked said joint up, but beyond that you'll need a specific testing fixture.