Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

Me and Matt are way past the grooming stage..... I still get nightmares.

I use a Sata Minijet for speckle effects.

Used that line before, she wasn’t impressed.

Still not caught up from the last bastard snow.

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Fade looks like a computer render! (I.e. too crisp/smooth to be real) Really nice

Bit of advice needed here: I've just painted a frame I bought and kept the original paint and clear coat in the rear triangle, how would I go about clear coating the new paint in the front? Do I mask again the rear triangle and then lightly sand + polish any differences in between clear coats?

I've attached a pic so you get an idea of what I've done.

Thanks!

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Remove any masking, key the rear triangle, then paint everything all at once.

This is incredible

I wish I could afford for you to paint my MX5. How about just the wing I've got to replace? A "feature" front wing.....

That was a joke in case you thought I had no taste whatsoever

Deffo.

I'd add that you might want to use masking paper on the front end whilst you work on keying the back end because silver is notoriously unforgiving regarding scratches and prep marks.

Once you've clearcoated the whole thing, you could wet flat it again and give it a flowcoat of clear. That way you'll have plenty of product to work with in order to smooth the transition between the old and new paint when you polish it up.

Looks great so far.

too cool.

@coldharbour @privatepatterson Thank you, that was the answer I was afraid of.. and I definitely see what you mean with the silver paint, besides the 3 layers, I touched up about 4/5 spots and it's still not perfect, I'll think thrice before using it again.

@BernardRenault thanks!

It looks good man.
It's not superstition, silver is a pita.
Ask any of the painters... lighter metallics highlight prep marks.
You've done a good job from what we can see.
Keep sharing the images.

Thanks! I hadn't taken into account the prep marks when choosing this colour, next time I'll know.

The only thing I'm worried about now is the added thickness because of the hot pink, there's a thin lip in between that and the white.. hoping the clear coat will even all that out.

There are mild solvents you can use to soften those edges but I don't know where you'd get a small amount...

Clearcoat is where you'll remedy those edges.
If you build the product higher than the top colour, you can flat it back to appear even and hide the lip at the colour transitions.

Thanks for the infos! I'll put up some pics once it's finished..

These paintschemes are so impressive - especially the candy fades.

On a considerably smaller and amateur scale, I'm about to paint a stem and was wondering if anyone could recommend a masking tape - something narrow that enables lines and curves to be set out?

There are lots of variables that will contribute to the effectiveness of the tape... paint product usage, number of layers of product, what you're masking on to, wether you wish to heat the substrate etc... there isn't a 'catch-all' tape that's good for everything... BUT...

Have a look at this link, they'll explain most of the differences and offer prices for each... https://www.jtape.com/

Oh hai

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Speak up. Don't be so koi.

(very nice BTW)

Can I get some advice please. I'd like to paint a frame in three different colours back to front, no fadez. Going for a brushed on oil painting/rat/I have no idea what I'm doing sort of thing. I'd like to know how to mask the down tube so the border is vertical and aligned with the border on the horizontal top tube. If that makes any sense? If I just wrap tape around the down tube it'll be at an angle.

Borrowing @agusteed 's pic above, which illustrates what I don't want. Id like the down tube masking to line up with the top tube. No disrespect intended towards @agusteed 's ambitions obvs!

That's really lush man!

Are you looking to have the paint edges "match" across the tubes?
Like this...

Yes, that's what I meant - thanks. Like the grey/yellow one in the last pic only flipped 90°

Okay. Cool.

I'm sure each of us has a different way of working this out but the eventual goal is the same... you need a chevron.

At CCW we use lasers, spirit levels, dummy axels and fineline/low-tack masking tapes to establish the position and then we sketch a silhouette onto some masking tape. We scan the rough tracing we have and make a digital version of the shape which we plot from masking vinyl so it can be re-made and repeated 'perfectly'.

Obviously that's a great deal of effort for what will for you, effectively be one masked edge but if any of that process is useful to you, it's yours.

Basically, you need to recreate a chevron shape in the correct place to achieve what you want. It should look lime some kind of 'V' shape from above in order to look like a straight line from the side. The dimensions of the chevron are specific to your bike and the angles/tubing profiles involved. You should be able to create a decent curve with some good quality tape and a heat gun (hairdryer is fine) or if you're happy with a sharp point, you can likely get away with two pieces of tape that overlap and then you can blade the tip into the shape that best suits your needs. Have a look at the images attached.

Hope all of that makes sense.

Show us some photos of how you get on?