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• #17227
Bonded too apparently.
I'll probably leave it, for the 1w it'll cost me.
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• #17228
I believe the FD braze on mounts on the P2/P3 are glued on under the rivets.
I'm just gonna leave mine on.Seatpost stopped slipping?
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• #17230
Project Fatty9
Pushed the FD Di2 cable into the extension so it's out of the air now. What watts will that weduce?
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• #17231
No slipped again last weekend. Gone back to shimming it with coke can. That lasted a long time before it slipped last time.
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• #17232
Don't you need a small ring, to get the load moving.
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• #17233
I ran a 58 before it was cool... noob
I think the carbon ring I have now is a 57. I've not fitted it to this setup. Still waiting for chainguide - think it's at the post office.
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• #17234
Fabricate a teardrop shaped nut/bolt to go behind it?
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• #17235
Yes, drilled the rivets and slid a blade under it to break the bond. About half way through it gave, taking a patch of lacquer (no larger than the mount): using a flat blade to work around a curved mount/frame levered it off. You could probably avoid this by working from either side alternately.
I've also ground the hanger part of the mount off (on a Felt I think), just leaving the base. But obviously that's a one-way street.
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• #17236
The frame is chipped and scratched all over, would just add to the character.
I think I'll leave it on, I do like ridings spocos so would only have to put it back on. If I loose an event by 1 second I'll regret that!
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• #17237
Ha. One idea. Go ful Nik b or whatever his name was, like in the 12.
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• #17238
Apologies: wrangling a number of bikes over a period of time has blurred my memory.
I did remove the hanger from a Felt. And I did refit it. The patch of lacquer (which remained bonded to the mount) was actually useful as it ensured the mount located in exactly the same position.
I cut a piece of self-adhesive vinyl to cover the bare patch during the interim and two-part epoxy and an eBay rivet gun to remount.
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• #17239
Thanks. Maybe I'll do it. I'll see how the new chainring performs this weekend before deciding.
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• #17241
Yeah, not for me thx.
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• #17242
They're not for me either... :0
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• #17243
Even though I've done one and it worked as expected I just don't get tubeless for road use. Especially when the TLR tyres test faster with latex inner tubes.
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• #17244
Especially when the TLR tyres test faster with latex inner tubes.
Citation needed
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• #17245
Claimed to be 1-2W worse with a latex tube:
https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/vittoria-corsa-speed-2016but, tested faster with:
https://bikeblather.blogspot.co.uk/2017/03/holy-molyvittoria-corsa-speed-tlr.html
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• #17246
tested faster with
?
Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR 23C, latex tube, Hed Jet6+ (100 psi) = .0025, 24W for pair @ 40 kph
Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR 23C, tubeless, Hed Jet6+ (100 psi) = .0025, 24W for pair @ 40 kph -
• #17247
Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR 23C, latex tube, Open Pro (120 psi) = .0025, 23W for pair @ 40 kph
Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR 23C, latex tube, Hed Jet6+ (100 psi) = .0025, 24W for pair @ 40 kph
Vittoria Corsa Speed TLR 23C, tubeless, Hed Jet6+ (100 psi) = .0025, 24W for pair @ 40 kph -
• #17248
So... The same
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• #17249
Tyre talk reminds me I need to fit my new fast tyres for saturday.
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• #17250
Three tests, two are the same, one is faster.
The tubed version is the top tyre in his list so my point stands.
Thanks for all the saddle info - a big part of it is discovering which options are available. Thanks for all the offers, @Pifko and @skinny, pms incoming. @danstuff thanks for the offer but I'll save looking at dash saddles until I've exhausted the cheaper options - I don't want to give myself any more excuses to spend money.
@skinny I'm interested in this too as I currently have a useless front-mech hanger. The best answer I've so far received is "I don't see why not" which didn't sound very reassuring...