Any question answered...

1x conversion question again.

I'm using some Deore MT60 (triple) cranks, which should use a 122.5mm square taper BB. If I want to use the outer ring position as the single ring, should I get a 113mm BB, bringing the ring in by ±5mm on each side (with 5mm being the standard distance between rings?

Why are memes captions/formulaic social media posts nowadays often written in African-American dialect ("x be like/be all..." etc)?

And is it normal to find it annoying/false-sounding, especially when it's from white British people?

Globalisation innit.
What are memes? A medium for instant distribution of popular culture.
Who's the main audience of memes? The yoof.
Where do the yoof import most of their other mainstream popular culture? America. Its natural that there's bleed across.

Allen keys diameters are flat face to flat face right? It's not corner to opposite corner

Allen keys diameters are flat face to flat face right?

Yes

Correct, its across flats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5qm0LwUHDqE

Ta both

should I get a 113mm BB, bringing the ring in by ±5mm on each side (with 5mm being the standard distance between rings?

Check your clearances, using triple cranks on a short axle can make the bosses for the inner ring hit the chainstay. Ring to ring distance is usually about 8mm, not 5mm. It's usually better to stick to the original axle length and use the middle ring position.

If you want to permanently convert the cranks, have checked for clearance after modification and like the idea of cutting 10mm off your Q factor, you can always mill/grind/file the red bits until they are flush with the blue bits

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Much obliged, tester

That was excellent.

Big up man like @amey Thanks @amey

When I am on the plane and everybody around me are watching films on their tablet computers; are these people still doing illegal downloads or is there a paid for service that I don't know of?

Does anyone know of any extra long fork expander bungs apart from this Deda branded one?

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extra long fork expander bungs apart from this Deda branded one

Colnago, although you have to ask yourself whether you should really trust the fork if you're relying on a large metal reinforcement to keep it together.

Interesting, thanks.

There's a 30mm difference in the drop of two handlebars I'm deciding between and thought a longer bung would reach the stem clamp area in the shorter drop bar stem position.

Is it not really advisable to clamp the stem around the expander position?

Is it not really advisable to clamp the stem around the expander position?

In the middle of the stem clamp is where your bung should be, you just don't need it to be everywhere else all at once. If you're leaving a lot of spare steerer above the stem, use a bung which isn't anchored to a particular depth from the top of the steerer, such as this one from @thecycleclinic

Is it not really advisable to clamp the stem around the expander position?

Some manufacturers state you must clamp around the expander, i.e. Cannondale.

Thanks for the advice. I think I have an FSA one in another bike that could swap over and slide into position before expanding which should work. Thanks once again...

anone know of the top of their head what the tyre clearance is on a 70's dawes galaxy tourer frame?

Neat solutions for conversion to full length outers? Do the following parts exist?

1. a part that'll let me attach a cable to a seat-stay with no cable boss
   
2. a BB cable guide that'll take full front/rear gear outers, with a stop for the front derailleur
   
3. something to fix two or three cables together reliably - that doesn't slide up or come loose
   
4. something that attaches an outer cable to a DT shifter boss
   
   

I'm struggling with Google as I just get unrelated crap like hose clamps:

Edit: Found part number 1

tyre clearance is on a 70's dawes galaxy

They would have been built for mudguards over 27×1¼, that's 32-630 in the new money. The limiting factor is width between the chainstays, you're not likely to get more than a 32mm in there with proper clearance even if you drop down to 622 rims.

perfect - thanks

https://www.birdguides.com/news/rspb-asks-public-to-increase-bird-feeding/

Your feathered friends get a mention here.

while you're here...on the subject of old 27" wheels like what the galaxy frame was built around...i've never understood how that sizing make sense with modern wheel sizes?

in modern terms, 700c = 29"

but if you put a 700c wheel in frame built for 27" wheels you need deep drop brakes so 700c wheel is smaller than 27"

so you then end up with 29" wheel being smaller than 27"

wtf?

so you then end up with 29" wheel being smaller than 27"
wtf?

29er refers to the overall diameter of a big MTB tyre on a 622 rim, 29×2.25"/57-622 should be almost exactly 29". 27×1¼ refers to overall diameter with a much narrower high pressure tyre, 32-630 is actually about 27¼" diameter. IOW, 29er wheels are smaller than 27" wheels, but over the tyre they are bigger.