Dynamo Lights

Pics or it never happened! :)

Yes, installed the other week. Did I not post about them?

Not that I saw.

Nope. Took pic of packet but not what I did with them. They worked for one ride so far. They come with heatshrink so I didn't need to send the missus out to buy heatshrink after all but at least I have some spare if I need to rewire. It's a decent fit but I've electrical taped the join anyway and taped the wire along the outside of the frame. I would buy them, especially as it's your first wiring job - if you want to move the wires inside and outside of different bikes (like I had to) then not having to cut and strip the light's wires each time is a good thing.

I flattened and shaped a piece of brass pipe for my b&m light. Works perfectly.

Very comprehensive! Thanks.

I'd have thought as long as it wasn't bent it should be fine, they shouldn't be under any real loading forces...

What small bullet connectors do people recommend for putting junctions into dynamo wires. I need something small so I can remove from internal routing on isen without cutting. i.e. small enough to go through a ~5mm hole. I've tried the son coaxial connector but the diameter is too large. Think I'll go for a pair of bullet style ones to use with the coaxial cable, but what one should I go for? ebay links? Gold plated to help with corrosion issues?

Spades?

Magnets? Has anyone tried that magnetised connector someone has developed?

I think @Dammit had? If he hasn't I will be within the next month for exactly the same reason. Taking my mudguards and lights off without removing the internal wiring. Do you mean these?

https://www.dyna-snap.com/

I've had rotten luck with spade snapping on my cyo IQ U so that is why I though bullets.

Liking the look of those magnetic ones, but the diameter looks too large for removing from frame easily without cutting.

Thinking something like this.

Why do you want to remove the cable from the frame? fuck that noise. I am going to create a split at the rear entry hole (behind BB) and a split at the front (by the head tube). I will probably just tape/tie it down to the frame. I'm only going to do this for packing the bike and also if riding in the mountains when I don't need guards/lights.

I've currently got Rob English building my new fork with Dynasnaps near the dropouts and again at the crown, for easy wheel removal at the bottom...and up top, both easy splitting for packing, and less chance of ripping the cable from the light if it gets snagged by passing branches off road.

@Skülly, @coldharbour, Been running a SON with Edelux for the past 10 years, always powering B&M rears. Currently got a B&M Toplight Plus and never had any issues with this setup

Was trying to avoid the tape/tie to the frame option.

Also wanted to have an option for routing either out of the bottom of bb, or out of the top of the seatpost if I don't have mudguards and want to run a light on the back of the saddle.

Fair play. Do you know what I’ve realised? There’s simply no such thing as a bike with integrated lighting that can easily be converted to the same bike, without integrated lighting and mudguards without a world of pain. I think dynasnaps and some cable ties is as good as it’ll get for me. Even the dynasnaps are a blessing tbh. When I had to put he Talbot in a bike box and couldn’t remove the rear mudguard from the frame due to wire for the rear light being fully integrated... Jesus that sucked.

You’re definitely right. Even with my method to rewrire would involve removing the bb.

I dream of internal routed cable as part of frame with some kind of female plug on frame exit.

I have a design for that, but need willing participant, i want to do it on a travel bike.

Ayyyeeeee! You can butcher mine.

I like where this is going

I've used this kind for 4 bikes (2mm size) and they've all been fine. Use some 3mm heatshrink on the individual connectors, and some 5mm to hold the two together. You can stagger them to help with getting them through the 5mm port.
Tip: put a male and a female on each end, so there only one way to make each connection and you don't need to worry about polarity (although most dynamo stuff is AC so doesn't care anyway.
ie something like this
F----------M
M----------F
not
F----------M
F----------M

https://www.bikester.co.uk/bicycle-equipment/bike-lights/lights-accessories/228460.html

Lovingly handmade and hopefully with me soon. Can't wait to get all this setup!

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I have this Supernova Light and mount - but want to mount it to a front rack now, approx 10mm diameter tubing. Obviously Some kind of ridiculous shim is a possibility, or mounting a section of 31.8 on the rack and the light on that.

Has anybody seen neat solutions for similar mounting? Have access to CAD and fancy pants 3d printing so expecting to end up having to do something custom.